Rolex – It’s the watch manufacturer with brand recognition that any other Maison would kill for. Synonymous with luxury and prestige for the horological layman, to the majority of the world there are watches – and then there is Rolex. But why and how did this London-born and Geneva-raised golden child earn its reputation? It all began with the Oyster.
In 1926, Rolex fundamentally changed the trajectory of modern horology with the introduction of the Oyster, the first truly waterproof and dustproof wristwatch, conceived by Hans Wilsdorf at a time when wristwatches were still regarded as fragile accessories rather than serious instruments. By sealing the case against the elements and later pairing it with the Perpetual self-winding rotor in 1931, Rolex established the template for the modern wristwatch: precise, robust and autonomous. Over the past century, the Oyster has evolved not as a single model, but as a platform. It’s been constantly tested in what Wilsdorf famously described as a “living laboratory,” from the English Channel to Mount Everest, ultimately becoming the foundation of an entire collection defined by reliability and performance. Now, at its 100th anniversary, Rolex shows how its winning formula continues to taste just as sweet, by introducing a trio of Oyster Perpetual references that reflect both continuity and a constant evolution.
The Oyster Perpetual 41 anchors the centenary with a subtle but deliberate reinterpretation of the Rolesor, pairing a yellow gold bezel and crown with a fully Oystersteel bracelet; an unusual configuration that shifts the visual weight toward functionality while retaining a precious touch. The slate sunray dial carries discreet anniversary cues, including a ‘100 years’ inscription at 6 o’clock and green accents across the minute track, while inside, the calibre 3230 delivers a 70-hour power reserve alongside Rolex’s latest Superlative Chronometer standards, now expanded to include resistance to magnetism, reliability and sustainability.
Alongside it, the Oyster Perpetual 36 takes a more expressive route, introducing a joyfully multicoloured lacquer dial built around the Jubilee motif. Here, the Rolex name itself becomes the design language, rendered in 10 distinct colours applied with extreme precision in a repeating pattern. Bringing to mind the highly sought-after ‘Celebration Dial’ launched in 2023, this piece is a timely reminder that – despite its gravitas and historical significance – Rolex is a Maison that still knows how to have fun.
Completing the trio, the Oyster Perpetual 28 and 34 push the collection into more overtly precious territory, executed entirely in 18-carat yellow and Everose gold respectively. Both introduce a first for Rolex: natural stone hour markers at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock – heliotrope on the green-dial 28mm, dumortierite on the blue-dial 34mm – adding a layer of material complexity without disrupting the collection’s core restraint. Powered by the calibre 2232 with a Syloxi silicon hairspring and approximately 55 hours of autonomy, these models maintain the same technical baseline while expanding the aesthetic vocabulary.
Taken together, these releases are a demonstration of just how far Rolex has come over the past century. From striving for the functional, to today’s goals of perfecting precision and elevating design and detail, they reaffirm the Oyster not just as a historical milestone, but as an enduring benchmark. And long may it continue.
