What is going on Rue Cambon? Not only has Chanel rolled out an impressive number of new releases, it has achieved a sense of coherence and harmony such that products complement rather than cannibalise each other. The brand has delivered a flawless performance that surprises and delights, both mechanically and aesthetically.
Couture is the thread (dare we say) that runs through these new releases, symbolised by needles, scissors, tape measures and sewing patterns. The Parisian brand has clearly had fun playing around with these fundamentals in eloquently creative ways.
The first J12 automata
Setting the ball rolling is the J12. An honour the “first unisex ceramic watch” well deserves. With it comes a new in-house movement - the sixth - named (appropriately) Calibre 6. But there is something different about this next-in-line: Calibre 6 is the brand’s first in-house movement with an automata function, and who other than Coco Chanel herself to get first dibs. Mademoiselle’s likeness springs to life on the dial as five separate animations. Behind the whimsy are some serious mechanics. Calibre 6 succeeds in fitting its 355 components into a case that measures just 38mm in diameter and 7.7mm high, and guarantees three full days of power reserve. A 100-piece limited edition.
J12 at the cutting edge
Back again! Chanel is also proposing its emblematic timepiece in a 33mm Couture version. There are two iterations in white - one 55-piece limited edition with a gem-set bezel and an edition available for a limited period only - as well as a 38mm size in black and gold, also offered for a limited period. The display plays on Chanel’s couture heritage by replacing hour and minute hands with a pair of scissors. The larger blade counts the hours and the smaller one the minutes. Seconds are measured by a needle-shaped hand, complete with its eye. The dial motif replicates a sewing pattern grid with tape measure markings around the bezel. This is pure creativity, fitted with a quartz movement, and befitting of the brand’s history and aesthetic.
Première Couture
Not everything is about the J12. Chanel has worked its magic on its two other flagship collections and presents the Première in a Couture version (19x15mm), again for a limited period only. Here, too, the double tour bracelet in gold and leather replicates the markings on a seamstress’s measuring tape. A Coco Chanel charm at 3 o’clock is set with a single diamond. This is a fun piece in keeping with the spirit of Chanel, although some may be puzzled by the “tape measure” design along the entire (long) length of the double tour strap.
Boy-Friend all sewn up
There is just one new interpretation of the Boy-Friend, too. Chanel’s symbols converge in this limited edition, for what is certainly a bold design yet doesn’t feel in the least contrived. On the bezel, the gold chain which the house sews into the bottom of its jackets or adds to its bags. On the dial, the pattern for one of its suits with white dotted lines to show stitching. At noon, a miniature version of the label which the Parisian houses sews into its jackets is sure to raise a smile. The buttons on the pattern are all diamonds. So chic, so Chanel.
