When it was released in 2022, the Chronomètre FB 3SPC received widespread critical acclaim, recognised for its seemly blend of innovation, traditional craftsmanship and precision. Over the years, the FB 3 collection has won several awards in recognition of its technical virtuosity, including the ‘Chronometry Prize’ at the GPHG 2023.
Most watches are equipped with a flat balance-spring, but the Chronomètre FB 3SPC is fitted with a cylindrical balance-spring; an approach that Ferdinand Berthoud and his nephew, Louis Berthoud, sometimes employed. Following three years of research, the Manufacture created a regulating organ comprising a variable-inertia balance, a specially designed collet and, most pertinently, a cylindrical balance-spring featuring two terminal curves.
Each terminal curve, one positioned at each end of the balance-spring, is shaped by hand and incorporates three bends, each created using only manual tools and a profile projector with 20x magnification. The resultant geometry of the balance-spring ensures it develops concentrically, augmenting isochronism. The Chronomètre FB 3SPC delivers remarkable precision, a fact independently recognised by the COSC, enabling this timekeeper to obtain the “Chronometer” certification.
Since the inaugural model was unveiled, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud has released several expressions of the Chronomètre FB 3SPC, executed in different materials and endowed with an array of finishes. However, the Manufacture has consistently adhered to the same no-compromise approach to watchmaking, blending refined mechanisms with traditional hand-decoration techniques.
The latest FB 3SPC.4-1 juxtaposes modernity and artisanal craftsmanship. Housed in ceramised titanium, a lightweight material with enhanced scratch-resistance, the model is adorned in a sophisticated shade of black, destined never to fade. The case is presented in a muted finish achieved through sandblasting that serves to accentuate the appearance of the dial and movement. Interestingly, this reference features a crown guard, a first for the Chronomètre FB 3SPC, while the introduction of a black fabric strap—also unprecedented within the collection—further accentuates its contemporary spirit.
The nickel silver movement is enriched with eight forms of decoration, namely bevelling, black polishing, circular finishing, open polishing (for the jewel and screw sinks), sandblasting, satin-finishing, softening and stretching. For several components, decoration begins with the sandblasting of surfaces before additional finishes are applied.
Unlike some contemporary watches, this artisanal approach does not rely on a preliminary angle being applied using a machine. On the contrary, at Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, the hand-bevelling is performed in the traditional way with a 45° angle deftly imparted with a knife. Once the artisan has removed any extraneous material, the bevel is filed, smoothed and polished using a series of abrasive compounds in various grades. Ultimately, gentian wood, taken from pastures near the Manufacture, is used to imbue each bevel with a brilliant sheen. The movement is endowed with 102 exterior angles and 15 inner angles, each the result of patience and craftsmanship.
Contrasting colours and finishes serve to enhance the visual appeal. The six bridges, visible from the dial side of the timepiece, are adorned with a vertical satin-finish. Great care must be taken when using this decoration technique as it is carried out after the bevelling: a careless movement could potentially damage the pristine angles. Furthermore, the artisan must ensure that consistent manual pressure is applied to surfaces in order to achieve an even and harmonious result. Lastly, the vertical lines drawn on each of the six bridges positioned to the front must be aligned.
This new model is presented for the first time at Geneva Watch Days, from 2 to 6 September 2026.
