After 20 years in the business, Cvstos is still considered a young brand, and under the direction of CEO Stefan Kunz, Cvstos continues to shape its collection into a modern expression of Swiss craftsmanship. The core Metropolitan collection, and specifically the Chronograph Skeleton in Blue Titanium, captures the essence of a recognizable Cvstos family DNA. And it does so by uniting the strength and lightness of advanced materials with the visual poetry of skeletonization. It is embodied in a collection where structure, function, and craft are perfectly exposed.
Tonneau blues with an open-worked twist
In a world of hype-worthy, small, slim watches with vintage cues and a dressy, slender profile, Cvstos offers us a breath of modernity in the 42mm Metropolitan Chronograph. Even with a small or medium-sized wrist, not everyone wants a ticket for the small-case train, and Cvstos proves that its broad-shouldered tonneau recipe works. Cvstos first introduced the Metropolitan collection as part of its expansion into sports wathes, but with a more dressed up urban image that bridges high-end material innovation with lifestyle appeal.
The masculine, beveled edges of the tonneau case is a trademark of the brand and offer the enviable quality of being recognizable ‘from six barstools away’. This not-too-serious measure of success is paraphrased from a quote by Jean-Claude Gueit, father of Emmanuel Gueit, founder of AP Offshore, and it fits. While tonneau-shaped cases and skeleton designs are not new for Cvstos, the Metropolitan collection marked an introduction of complications like chronograph movements, and the more traditional small seconds at six o’clock matched by dial art. The urban chic of the Metropolitan Chrono Skeleton line has a dynamic design, sized at 42mm by 51mm, with the tonneau-shaped case crafted from grade-5 titanium, 5N red gold, or even clear sapphire. The 51mm lug-to-lug is made ergonomic by the dramatic angle of the case, with straps and bracelets affixed to the case with short, angled end links that accentuate the comfort.
A wide bezel with a strong beveled edge accentuates the shape-play of the alternating brushed and polished finishes on the case, which features a medium-sized design at 42mm. However, the bold presence of the Cvstos Metropolitan Chronograph is offset using lighter case materials, including titanium and sapphire, resulting in a substantial wrist presence with a very wearable size-to-weight ratio. We also admit to having a soft spot for the 5N red gold, whose integrated bracelet amps up the glitz to the point where we would happily live with the extra weight. The Metropolitan has evolved through several sub-series, including the Metropolitan PS (Petite Seconde), with limited editions tied to ambassadors and sports partnerships. There is also a deep blue coloured metal case in the collection, the blue DLC titanium Chronograph. With the same softly rounded tonneau frame and a deep navy luster, the Cvstos chronograph caliber CVS758 is showcased in its open-worked glory through a denim blue-highlighted skeletonized dial, set in blue titanium and paired with a matching strap.
This is not the first time we've seen a monochrome, muscular sports watch with a tonneau shape, and Cvstos will also cater to more flamboyant tastes with gem-set versions of the red gold version available. However, there is something deeply appealing about the deep midnight blue, which seems to accentuate the intrinsic details of the self-winding movement while providing a strong contrast to the purple jewels and grey titanium of the micro-architecture within. Time is displayed by a set of broad sword hands, with a running seconds at nine o’clock and a 30-minute counter at three o’clock with crisp markings on matte sapphire chapter rings. On a matching navy blue alligator strap, the tonal flex of this nighttime-hued Metropolitan brings together the savoir-faire and modernity that make Cvstos stand apart in most crowds.
