Denis Flageollet, the brand’s founder and master watchmaker, openly draws inspiration from 18th-century horology to shape a vision for the 21st century. The spherical moon phase, now a signature of De Bethune, first appeared in 2004 with the DB15. By 2007, it had been integrated into the inaugural DB25, helping define the collection’s identity alongside its openworked lugs and hand-guilloché dial. The DB25Vxs Silver Moon reinterprets these elements with a contemporary touch that is both elegant and evocative.
A poetic expression of precision
In this new version, the spherical moon phase appears at 12 o’clock, crafted from palladium and flame-blued steel, set against a blued titanium sky dotted with gold stars. Its highly accurate mechanism reproduces the lunar cycle with such precision that it requires adjustment by only one lunar day every 112 years. The dial features hand-executed silver barleycorn guilloché radiating from the center, creating a striking sense of openness. This impression is further enhanced by a domed, satin-finished grey flange displaying the railway minute track and hour markers. The overall harmony stems from the interplay of curves: the 40 mm round case in mirror-polished grade 5 titanium echoes the shape of the rose gold Breguet-style hands and complements the slender, openworked lugs adorned with ogival details. With this piece, De Bethune once again balances classical refinement with a distinctly modern sensibility.
A distinct approach to innovation
Exploration of materials and contemporary design remain central to the manufacture’s identity. First introduced in 2010 and awarded the Aiguille d’Or at the 2011 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the DB28 has become a cornerstone of modern independent watchmaking. The DB28xs Dark Sand offers a new, more mineral interpretation of the DB28xs Steel Wheels from 2018. Crafted from matte anthracite zirconium, it highlights the brand’s ongoing research into advanced materials. Its hardness and stable oxidation provide enhanced durability over time, while the satin-finished black case lends a bold, deep, and modern aesthetic.
The model retains the signature DB28xs Steel Wheels architecture, including its distinctive floating lugs, also in zirconium, and hemispherical forms that create depth through contrasting textures. The black sandblasted titanium dial brings out the barleycorn guilloché of the anthracite deltoid central bridge, as well as the polished violet titanium hour markers and matching openworked hands. Traditional hand-finishing techniques, including anglage, sandblasting, and polishing, further enhance the play of light, adding subtle dimensionality to the overall design.
High-performance calibres
In keeping with its philosophy, De Bethune equips these watches with fully in-house movements renowned for their chronometric reliability. The DB25Vxs Silver Moon is powered by the hand-wound DB2105V5 calibre, finished by hand with De Bethune côtes, mirror-polished steel, and blued titanium. Its performance is enhanced by a titanium balance wheel with white gold weights (patented in 2016) and a self-regulating double barrel, ensuring steady energy delivery and a six-day power reserve. Additional features, including a flat terminal curve hairspring (patented in 2006), a silicon escape wheel, and a shock-absorption system (patented in 2005), contribute to its precision and durability.
The DB28xs Dark Sand is fitted with the hand-wound DB2115V13 calibre, operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour. It is engineered to deliver outstanding chronometric performance by incorporating the manufacture’s key patented innovations.
Together, these two new models underscore De Bethune’s expertise across design, craftsmanship, and technical innovation, while continuing to embody its unique vision of 21st-century independent watchmaking.
