The Fiftysix collection, launched in 2018, encapsulates the modern spirit of everyday elegance while paying tribute to the distinctive style and timeless appeal of the 1950s. Now, eight years after the collection’s debut, Vacheron Constantin revisits the design codes that have established Fiftysix as a modern classic: a reinterpretation of the sector dial design and a sophisticated evolution of the case finishes are complemented by a new strap. This aesthetic evolution is introduced with two of the collection’s key models – the Fiftysix Self-Winding and Fiftysix Complete Calendar, both cased in stainless steel.
Contemporary Elegance with a Retro Spirit Inspired from the 1950's
In conceiving the Fiftysix collection as a contemporary expression of everyday elegance, Vacheron Constantin reimagined the aesthetics of the 1950s – a highly creative period when the Maison elevated the classical round shape by pairing timeless and refined dial designs with distinctive case aesthetics and bold lug designs. With a deft blend of vintage-inspired yet assuredly contemporary design, carefully crafted dials and a harmonious colour palette, the Fiftysix collection ranges from time-only models to sophisticated complications, including Complete Calendar and Day-Date Power Reserve models in a variety of materials and colours.
The collection’s name pays tribute to 1956, the year that Vacheron Constantin launched Reference 6073. A quintessential mid-20th-century dress watch, this refined, time-only reference is aesthetically notable for its distinctive lugs that evoke the Maltese Cross and its box-style crystal (two elements directly translated into the Fiftysix collection) as well as being technically distinguished as one of the Maison’s first watches to be fitted with a self-winding movement. Honouring this history, it was natural that the entire Fiftysix collection should be equipped with self-winding calibres.
Inspired by the sector dials of the 1950s, the dials of the Fiftysix collection feature concentric circles with different finishes, capturing the light to create depth and visual interest as well as enhancing legibility. On the chapter ring, applied hour markers alternate between Arabic numerals and baton-shaped indexes, creating a strong and distinctive personality.
True to Vacheron Constantin’s attention to detail and unwavering commitment to fine finishing, the transparent sapphire caseback of every Fiftysix model reveals the movement components decorated with Côtes de Genève, circular graining and snailing – as well as the collection’s signature oscillating weight: an open-worked winding rotor in 22-carat pink gold with polished and satin- brushed finishes and a Maltese Cross appliqué.
Expressing its creativity through constant aesthetic evolution, Vacheron Constantin regularly revisits all of its collections, bringing freshness without ever compromising the core design codes. In its new interpretation of the Fiftysix collection, the sector-type dials appear bolder and more dynamic, lending depth and sophistication to the displays while retaining a certain subtlety that characterises their vintage inspiration.
An Aesthetic Evolution Reimagines the Vintage Inspiration
Vacheron Constantin unveils its new interpretation of the Fiftysix collection through two emblematic models: the Fiftysix Self-Winding and the Fiftysix Complete Calendar, each housed in a 40-millimetre-diameter stainless-steel case. The cool tone of the steel complements the shades of grey on the double-gradient dials and the strap, lending a softness and refined harmony to the overall aesthetic.
On the redesigned case, a mix of finishes creates a lively play of light and adds a more contemporary allure. The distinctive bevelled lugs – a Fiftysix signature – are vertically brushed and polished on the bevel. The case sides are also finished with vertical brushing, in contrast with the polished bezel, crown and (where present) correctors.
Underlining the modern spirit of the Fiftysix collection, the new models are presented on a nubuck calfskin leather strap with calfskin lining, contrasting ecru stitching and a stainless-steel folding clasp.
On the dial of the Fiftysix Self-Winding the sector-style design is amplified by the contrast between the lighter grey gradient of the opaline dial centre and the darker grey sunburst gradient of the chapter ring, as well as the light grey of the snailed peripheral minutes track. Underlining Vacheron Constantin’s attention to detail, the date display window is precisely aligned with the centre of the inner white minutes track that acts as a graphic boundary separating the two dial sectors. The choice of 18-carat white gold for the applied hour markers – Arabic numerals alternating with elongated rectangular indexes – and the baton-style hour and minute hands adds to the tone-on-tone harmony. To maximise legibility in low light conditions, the hour and minute hands and the hour indexes are highlighted with blue SuperLuminova®.
The Fiftysix Self-Winding is equipped with the mechanical self-winding movement, Calibre 1326, which drives the display of hours, minutes, central seconds and date. Incorporating a stop-seconds device to ensure precise time-setting, it offers a 48- hour power reserve. The transparent sapphire caseback reveals the fine finishes on the movement components – including Côtes de Genève, circular graining and snailing – as well as the collection’s signature oscillating weight: an open-worked winding rotor in 22-carat pink gold with polished and satin-brushed finishes and a Maltese Cross appliqué.
The Fiftysix Complete Calendar features a darker grey gradient opaline in the centre of the dial and lighter grey sunburst gradient on the chapter ring, separated by a contrasting white minutes track that highlights the sector design. Following the classical layout for a complete calendar, the day of the week and the month are displayed in rectangular apertures on the upper half of the dial, balanced by the moon-phase display on the lower part and the date is displayed on the dial periphery, indicated by a hand. The snailed finish of the date ring adds textural contrast while the black colour matches the black night sky of the moon-phase display. Complementing the tone-on-tone harmony of the greys, the moon, the applied Maltese Cross symbol, applied hour markers – the signature mix of Arabic numerals and straight indexes – and baton-style hour and minute hands are in polished 18-carat white gold. As on all Fiftysix models, the hour and minute hands and the hour indexes are highlighted with blue SuperLuminova®.
A horological complication highly appreciated by connoisseurs, the complete calendar (also known as triple calendar) was introduced to Vacheron Constantin’s collections from the early 1940s and became one of the Maison’s signature complications from the mid-20th century onwards. In the Fiftysix Complete Calendar, the self-winding movement Calibre 2460 QCL/1 drives the indications of date, day of the week and month, as well as a precision moon-phase display that requires adjustment only once every 122 years. Comprising 308 parts, the calibre operates at a frequency of 4 HZ (28,800 vph) and offers a power reserve of 40 hours. Fine finishes on the movement components – including Côtes de Genève, circular graining and snailing – are complemented by the Fiftysix collection’s signature open-worked winding rotor in 22-carat pink gold with polished and satin-brushed finishes and a Maltese Cross appliqué.
With this fresh interpretation of its retro-modern design introduced by two key models, the Fiftysix collection cements its status as a contemporary classic, perfectly in tune with today’s mood of relaxed elegance. This aesthetic evolution will extend to other models in the collection, with new interpretations including a range of strap options that will further refresh and amplify the collection’s distinctive style.
Questions for Christian Selmoni, Maison Legacy & Style Director
How did the historical context of the 1950s influence the design of Vacheron Constantin’s round watches?
The 1950s was a decade of prosperity and economic growth and Vacheron Constantin naturally reflected this in its creations. In the mid-20th century, watches were distinguished by their elegance. Cases were round and slim, unlike earlier in the century, when the watch industry produced just about every shape of watch. At Vacheron Constantin, timepieces were characterised by sophistication, clean lines and harmonious proportions. In addition, technological advances had led to significant improvements in terms of accuracy and reliability, as well as the widespread use of precious metals (gold and platinum). The watches created by Vacheron Constantin during the 1950s reflected other trends of the time, including light-coloured dials and refined finishes. This aesthetic has not aged at all, consolidating the status of these watches as icons of the period.
The Fiftysix collection claims a direct affiliation with Reference 6073 from 1956. Given that the current trend is toward smaller diameters, why did Vacheron Constantin choose not to adopt the same vintage proportions?
Each of our contemporary collections finds its roots and inspiration in the history of the Manufacture. For example, the Patrimony collection is also inspired by an extremely understated model from the 1950s; however, while respecting its original minimalism, we have chosen to interpret it in a contemporary manner. In the 1950s, watches were smaller and Reference 6073 was no exception with its 35 mm diameter. It is not Vacheron Constantin’s mission to reproduce the past identically, to reproduce what has already been done. In this respect, the Fiftysix collection can be defined as modern with a retro touch.
Since the blend of retro references and contemporary styling lend a timeless aesthetic to the Fiftysix collection, what prompted this redesign of the Self-Winding and Complete Calendar models?
Because we humans live in a world of myriad and constantly changing visual references, our ‘eye’ also evolves over time and Vacheron Constantin is no exception. Therefore, while all of our designs are characterised by a certain timelessness we constantly review and often revise them. The Maison’s motto “Do better if possible, and that is always possible” is not just an exhortation to push the boundaries of technical excellence; it is also an invitation to creativity – to think differently, look at things in new ways, embrace change and safeguard our traditions without remaining static. The evolution of these Fiftysix designs is a perfect example.
