Following the launch of the fourth generation Breguet Type 20 (military version) and Type XX (civilian version) chronographs last year, Breguet returns with a new civilian model housed in a rose gold case with a brand-new blue ceramic bezel – a first for the brand.
A Family of Pioneers
The history of aviation and Breguet timekeeping are intricately intertwined. All watch enthusiasts know the name Abraham-Louis Breguet thanks to his numerous horological inventions, including the tourbillon, but there is another branch of the Breguet family who were pioneers in aviation. Louis-Clément, a descendant of Abraham-Louis, was one of the most important airplane constructors of his era. He left such a mark on French history that his name is even inscribed on the Eiffel Tower!
Emmanuel Breguet, Vice President and Head of Patrimony, explained to WorldTempus at the time of the launch: “Louis-Clément built planes that have been a little bit forgotten today, but that were very important for about 50 years, not only in France, but also around the world, and for several decades. He was really one of the manufacturers that counted,” he shared. “The other amusing thing is that the family has always kept links with the owners of Breguet watches, so my grandfather was able to tell the Breguet watch company what they needed to do to meet the needs of the day’s pilots. On that basis, it was a great opportunity for the Breguet brand to have access to this information about the world of aircraft,” he noted.
Taking to the Skies
Breguet started to build dashboard clocks for aircraft, but after WW2, it started to make more official aviation chronographs as pilots needed the time on the instrument panel in front of them, but also as a backup on their arm. In 1953 the French Air Force launched a project called the Type XX (this is where the name comes from), commissioning a watch from Breguet with a flyback function, black dial, luminescent hands, and vibration, acceleration, and heat resistance, starting this incredible horological adventure.
Most of the timepieces have been crafted from steel, with rose gold making a fleeting appearance in 1955 with the reference No. 1780. Only three pieces were made and one of them is now on display in the Breguet Museum. As for engraved bezels, they came much later in the 1970s.
The Fourth Generation
The fourth generation of Type 20 and Type XX, released last year, took over four years to develop, and took its cues from the first-generation models with big Arabic numbers, luminescence, and bidirectional bezels. Two new calibres were also developed for the series – the Calibre 728 for the civilian version and the Calibre 7281 for the military version – both featuring column wheel vertical clutches, frequencies of 5 Hz, innovative zero-setting activation systems, and numerous silicon components.
The New Type XX in Rose Gold
This new rose gold Type XX combines these historical elements in a brand-new model housed in a 42mm rose gold case with a fluted blue ceramic bezel. This is the first time Breguet has used ceramic in any of its watches, but it brings a modern and elegant frame to the watch’s deep blue dial. For the functions, the hours, minutes, and chronograph seconds are in the centre, while a 15-minute chronograph counter is positioned at three o’clock, an 12-hour counter is at six o’clock, a small seconds display is at nine o’clock, and the date is at 4h30.
The timepiece comes with a blue leather strap and a blue NATO strap with a white stripe that can be easily interchanged thanks to Breguet’s interchangeable strap system. Aviation lovers will also appreciate the box which comes in the shape of an airplane wing in brown leather.
