This year, Panerai is focusing on heroic testosterone-charged watches, and all eyes are on three Submersibles. They embody Panerai’s maritime spirit, paying tribute to the natural element of the manufacture’s chosen audience of explorers and adventurers.
The design is bold and water-resistance is exceptional – essential elements for a Submersible designed to reflect Panerai’s partnership with the America’s Cup, as official sponsor of the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli sailing team. When the point is to position itself as a leader in performance-driven watches, high-tech materials are de rigueur.
And that explains why ceramic has been chosen for the bezel of the Submersible Luna Rossa PAM01565, and titanium for the bezel of the Submersible Tourbillon GMT Luna Rossa Experience, which has a case made from Carbotech, a patented alloy created by compressing carbon fibre sheets at a precise temperature and under high pressure with PEEK (polyetheretherketone), a high-quality polymer that enhances the composite’s strength and durability.
Rounding out the cutting-edge materials used in Panerai’s 2024 watch collection is the Ti-Ceramitech case of the Submersible QuarantaQuattro Luna Rossa. This innovative patented material is the result of seven years of research and development, involving a process that transforms the surface of the titanium alloy into a dense ceramic layer through plasma electrolytic oxidation, resulting in a unique blue hue.
Luckily for fans of fine mechanical watches, Panerai never sacrifices craftsmanship for performance, or vice versa. As always, this year the brand has seamlessly combined advanced materials with top-flight calibres that would not be out of place in any haute horlogerie collection.
Let’s begin at the beginning, with a grand complication. The hand-wound P.2015/T calibre is the product of three years’ development. The movement and tourbillon cage alone require eight hours of meticulous work to assemble. This skeletonised calibre drives the Submersible Tourbillon GMT Luna Rossa, which, in addition to the tourbillon escapement, includes a second time zone on a 24-hour scale with a day-night indicator, a small seconds display and a power reserve indicator. It’s a stunning piece of work.
Both the Ti-Ceramitech Submersible QuarantaQuattro Luna Rossa and the steel Submersible Luna Rossa PAM01565, which will be launched as an e-commerce exclusive on the second day of Watches and Wonders, are powered by the P.900 automatic movement. This highly reliable calibre is one of the thinnest automatic movements in Panerai’s catalogue and offers a three-day power reserve, with energy provided by a bidirectional oscillating weight and a balance wheel that vibrates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour.
By combining high-tech materials, sporty functionality and watchmaking expertise, Panerai has created a winning formula that is sure to appeal to modern-day heroes.
