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How Do You Make a Viking Watch?

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2 minutes read
The fall of 2026 the Swedish brand GoS – a pioneer of damascus steel on dials and cases – focuses on the watch called Winter Nights III. This timepiece is also entered into the GPHG category of Metiérs d’art category.

As I write this, the GPHG Academy still have a few days left of its voting period. By August 17, the approximately 1’000 Academy members shall have separated the wheats from the chaff: Which will be the nominated watches for the final of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve on November 7? Will GoS Winter Nights III be one of them? On September 2, we will all know. 

Winter Nights III © GoS Watches

But in GoS’s tranquil workshop in central Linköping some 200 kilometers south of the Swedish capital Stockholm, co-founder Patrik Sjögren is calm. He only has one concern: the straight on “soldier” image requested by the Grand Prix from all participants. “I wish the images could have more of an angle, as our watches has so much depth and so many three-dimensional details. With a straight on image, people might not realize how much work we put into the watches,” he said with a chuckle. 

The Winter Nights III is showcasing all the specialties of the brand founded in 2007: Swedish gold, viking aesthetics, patinated damascus gold and steel on the dial and case, and a plethora of hand finished details. For the blacksmithing work and engraving he collaborates with Conny Hedlund and Anders Persson, and all the parts are hand finished and controlled by Patrik. “This is why I can’t make more than 20-25 watches per year at the moment,” he said.

Patrik Sjögren in his workshop © GoS Watches

Conny Persson is a prized master bladesmith, based in a forest village in the North of Sweden. He is a damascus specialist – the ancient technique where layer upon layered are forged together, leaving a vivid, organic pattern. He masters both traditional pattern-welded steels and modern techniques known as mosaic damascus and is regarded as a legend by hos peers and collectors. Anders Hedlund is known as one of the best knife makers in the world. A fourth pillar in GoS watches is the watch designer Jaques Binggeli based in Neuchatel, who refines Mr. Sjögren’s design concepts and ideas. 

With Winter Nights III, GoS Watches introduces its latest development: cases cast in Swedish gold. “You must cast in vacuum and spin it to get rid of air bubbles. And you must take the shrinking into consideration. When it hardens it shrinks 1%, so the casting forms must be around 1% larger to respect the tolerances in watchmaking. And now that we master the technique, we can offer all our current watches: Winter Nights, Fullerö Sword, Norrsken, and the multi-award winning Frost in gold,” Mr. Sjögren said. “Since most gold models have around 30 grams of gold, the changing gold price has been tough. Recently I have had to safeguard myself, using the word introduction price: If the gold keeps running, I can’t take the hit again,” he explained.

The GoS03 movement custom made by Schwarz Etienne and finished by Patrik © GoS Watches

As of 2026 GoS also offers its watches in platinum, but for that Patrik had to find a German partner, since nobody in Sweden offer platinum works with fine enough tolerances. 

As for so many independents the USA has always been an important market for GoS watches, and in October year Patrik is travelling to Atlanta for the indie salon organized by the Atlanta Watch Society. Here he will join brands like Bovet, Marco Tedeschi and Ferdinand Berthoud

What about the calibers in GoS Winter Nights III? They are Swiss made bespoke movement by Schwarz Etienne. On the movements Mr. Sjögren has modified several parts in his Swedish atelier. For instance, several pieces have undergone a patination process resulting in a black pattern which is then polished. This enhances the form of the case and enlivens the damascene pattern. “The watch should have the feeling of an old Viking artefact,” he explained.

Winter Nights III © GoS Watches

For the 20th anniversary in 2027, the brand will take its next step in calibers: a movement developed together with a yet to be announced Swiss watchmaker. 

“And for the long term I have some connections that would potentially make it possible to increase the production. For a long time, I have had the desire to make around 50 pieces per year. But it would take time to build up something like that. Especially since I love to do all the finishing work myself, it is not easy to give that up!”

However the expansion pans out, Mr. Sjögren is not thinking about leaving Sweden. “I have got the family here, and I am very happy to be in my Linköping atelier that was completed four years ago. Here I can meet and greet clients and show them what I do. And it is easy to get in and out of Linköping since KLM has an airport here. And my son just bought a house and his first child is underway – I will become a grandfather in September. So I will definitely stay here!” 

GoS Winter Nights II case with patinated damascus steel © GoS Watches

Facts GoS Winter Nights III 

Functions: Hours, Minutes Seconds. Small second at 6h:00 in the shape of the GoS triskele

Movement: By Schwarz Etienne with GoS-specific modifications and finishing. Automatic winding with a micro-rotor and hand finished damascus steel counterweight. GoS triskele engraved on click wheel. Hand polished bevels on all bridges. 21,600 vibrations/hour. 86h power reserve

Case: 41.5mm x 12.1mm. Stainless damascus steel case ring with bonded patina, framed with 18k gold bezel, caseback and lugs – all shaped and finished by hand

Dial: Hand forged Swedish tool steel by GoS bladesmith Conny Persson - machined and finished by Patrik Sjögren.

Strap: Grained Nordic Moose leather manufactured by strap artisans in Belgium

Limited edition: Total of 12 pieces. Every watch is a unique piece and the client selects and approves of the damascus steel dial before finishing proceeds.

Price: €38,000 excl VAT. (In August 2026, could be subject to change)