How did Roger Dubuis celebrate its 30th anniversary last year?
The 30th anniversary served as a milestone for us, as it is so rare to achieve such creativity in just three decades. We wanted to make it a stand-out event honoring our founders and particularly Roger Dubuis, notably by developing several pieces faithful to his philosophy of distinctive design and his passion for creative complications. The Excalibur Grande Complication kicked things off by mirroring what he loved most: the minute repeater, the automatic perpetual calendar, the tourbillon and the bi-retrograde display – which he had in fact patented even before the company was founded. He was keen on differentiated displays, often using highly expressive hands to enliven the dial
We presented another model in the Excalibur collection, this time with a bi-retrograde display incorporating many of the original characteristics, but in a 40mm version. Roger Dubuis was among the first to fit men’s watches with mother-of-pearl dials. Bridge openings provide a chance to admire the mechanisms and the quality of the finishes. The approach was not about targeting a technical feat, but rather about showcasing team’s expertise through Geneva fine craftsmanship. The final chapter played out at Dubai Watch Week, where we presented our Hommage La Placide, featuring bi-retrograde and perpetual complications in a modest 38mm diameter, and with aesthetic codes expressing the spirit of Lake Geneva, notably a deep blue dial. Our clear intention was to reposition Roger Dubuis at the heart of the brand’s founding principles.
What were the reactions?
The reception was remarkable. We saw two universes of collectors come together: the historical “aficionados,” attached to the early Roger Dubuis, and the more recent enthusiasts, attracted by the contemporary expressiveness of the brand. Some profiles, which were thought to be very oriented toward bold pieces, became passionate about these more classical models — proof that this tribute was able to bring the entire community together around the original DNA of the house.
Very few new releases were unveiled at the last editions of Watches and Wonders. What about the 2026 vintage?
This is much more substantial, with eight models grouped under an astronomical theme that we have called “Movements of the Sky” and starring perpetual calendars, including a bi-retrograde Excalibur. In addition, we are promoting our bespoke service, vividly illustrating our longstanding watchmaking savoir-faire that we have decided to give more prominence to this year. Roger Dubuis is also developing a women's segment that has always been part of our history and for which we have received a lot of requests. We have recreated an entire feminine universe around the Lady of the Lake, reflecting what happens beneath the sky, but this time in the forest of Broceliande and the legendary world of Arthur and Merlin. This highly creative story is told against a background of artistic crafts.
Which 2026 model do you think best represents your vision for Roger Dubuis?
Undoubtedly our Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar in its new 40mm case, which perfectly matches the pure Roger Dubuis DNA and unites all its distinctive features. Its finishes are exceptional, particularly its interior angles creating stunning light effects. We have raised the bar to the highest level in terms of everything that Roger Dubuis stands for and the quality of its craftsmanship: the beauty of the movement components and regard for tradition, as well as the extremely powerful visual impact of the case and of the dial with its subtly integrated mother-of-pearl.
How is the brand doing and what are your priorities for this year?
We ended March with a level of performance superior to that of the global market, which was our objective. The next challenge is clear: to rebuild the community of Roger Dubuis enthusiasts and reconnect with those who have drifted away. This will be achieved through dedicated programs, as well as through more accessible offerings, such as the Excalibur Biretrograde in steel, positioned at a more accessible price point designed to reach a new clientele. We are also continuing the repositioning process that began two years ago, with a stronger focus on Haute Horlogerie and a return to the brand's fundamentals. This strategy must be reflected everywhere to ensure total consistency, from our 40 or so boutiques to our website, communications and visual media, so as to clearly express our identity and ambition.
You will be welcoming the participants of the GMT Watch Safari to the Manufacture. What will they find there?
Most importantly, they will find enthusiasts who live and breathe Haute Horlogerie and who will welcome them as friends – in keeping with Roger Dubuis's “Just for Friends” spirit. We are keen to reveal the heart of our craft in a simple way: starting with a simple brass plate or steel tube to create the movements housed in the timepieces you see here. They will also have access to more confidential areas, such as the Q-Lab, a veritable creative laboratory where our exceptional timepieces are born — a truly rare experience unlikely to be found anywhere else.
