You are introducing a new women’s collection, Joia de Baume & Mercier, at Watches and Wonders, a very refined line. Does it echo the Maison’s heritage?
Yes, this new women’s collection is firmly anchored in our heritage. We took inspiration from a piece created in the 1980s, strongly influenced by jewelry design, featuring a hammered bracelet set with diamonds that already showcased the Maison’s expertise in this area. This piece served as the foundation for imagining a contemporary jewelry watch, and from there, a complete collection. That is how Joia de Baume & Mercier came to life, our new feminine line, offered in several variations: steel on steel, steel on leather, and gold-toned finishes on leather. We wanted a very soft, rounded aesthetic that fully embraces its femininity. Depending on the version, Joia can be seen either as a jewelry watch or as a true jewelry piece when adorned with diamonds. The overall design remains deeply inspired by the spirit of the 1980s, reinterpreted with a modern sensibility.
Women made up nearly half of Baume & Mercier’s sales around the turn of the century, correct?
Close to that, yes. Women have historically played a significant role at Baume & Mercier, but this balance has gradually shifted over time. Today, about 70% of our offering is geared toward men. With these new releases, we are clearly pursuing a rebalancing strategy, aiming to restore equilibrium between men’s and women’s collections. This approach involves both distinctive creations rooted in our heritage and pieces designed to be worn every day.
Your new campaign returns to the theme of celebration that once defined Baume & Mercier’s most iconic moments. What message are you aiming to convey?
Celebration is a core element of Baume & Mercier’s identity. It is a space the Maison has long occupied, and one that is consistently echoed by both our clients and our partners. Many people instinctively associate Baume & Mercier with important milestones in their lives, graduations, birthdays, weddings, moments that are often marked by the purchase or gift of a watch.
We wanted to reaffirm this positioning while giving it a more contemporary interpretation. Today, it’s not only about celebrating major life events, but also more personal, sometimes more intimate moments, occasions when one chooses to reward oneself or acknowledge a personal achievement. In this sense, the watch becomes both a gift and a personal statement, a symbol of self-recognition.
More than a communication angle, celebration is a founding value of Baume & Mercier. It has been part of the Maison’s story from the very beginning and remains central to its identity today. Our ambition is to express it in a more modern way, in tune with today’s lifestyles and expectations, while remaining faithful to this heritage.
Is this also reflected in your Watches and Wonders booth?
Yes, absolutely. This approach will be clearly visible on our booth, as well as across all our communication platforms. The Joia de Baume & Mercier collection, along with the theme of celebration, will be at the heart of our presentation. They naturally resonate with the fair’s theme, Inner Time, which encourages a more personal and introspective relationship with time, the time we choose to dedicate to ourselves. A central installation featuring mirrors will invite visitors to pause and take a moment for themselves while discovering the Joia de Baume & Mercier collection. In this setting, celebration takes on its full meaning, as a way of highlighting moments that matter, whether for oneself or for others. This vision will be expressed both through the booth’s architecture and scenography, as well as in all of our communications.
Do men also have plenty to look forward to at Watches and Wonders?
Absolutely, men are strongly represented this year, with several significant launches. The most notable is the new Classima, a key collection for Baume & Mercier and a true gateway into the brand’s world. We have streamlined the range by focusing on a single 40 mm case size, making the offer clearer and more coherent. The watch itself has been extensively redesigned, featuring a more contemporary aesthetic along with classic watchmaking elements such as a barleycorn guilloché dial.
At the same time, we are unveiling the Riviera 73, with three new models that pay tribute to the first generation of Riviera by reinterpreting its original design codes. True to the spirit of the original, this quartz version adopts a cleaner, slimmer profile and is available with either a leather or steel bracelet. With its 39 mm diameter and well-balanced proportions, it offers an elegant option priced under €2,000.
Lastly, we continue to expand the Clifton line, which remains a cornerstone of our men’s collection, whether through a limited edition featuring an ice-blue dial that brings a contemporary touch, or with the introduction of a new perpetual calendar model.
Does the Baumatic movement still play a role in this strategy?
Yes, we are extremely proud of the Baumatic calibre. It offers a five-day power reserve, improved accuracy, resistance to magnetic fields up to 1,500 gauss, and comes with an eight-year warranty. It is fully aligned with our watchmaking vision. At this year’s Watches and Wonders, it is showcased in the Clifton model featuring an ice-blue dial.
Which markets are currently the most important for the brand, and where do you see growth opportunities?
Italy remains our primary market, showing steady and robust growth, and continues to be a key strategic pillar for the Maison. The United States is another major focus, with particularly strong momentum this year, prompting us to further strengthen our investments there.
At the same time, several markets with high potential are emerging. India is experiencing rapid growth and is a priority for expansion, as is Turkey, which also offers very promising prospects. Lastly, the Middle East is becoming an increasingly important region in our global development strategy.
