Appreciating the sound of a minute repeater in the midst of Watches and Wonders is a real challenge, the exhibition halls are filled with constant background noise. And yet, when the clear, crystalline notes of the new Master Hybris Mechanica Ultra Thin Minute Repeater ring out, they seem to lift you away. Somewhere else. Perhaps to the Vallée de Joux, where it was created, and where silence allows what truly matters to resonate.
This timepiece embodies several core principles of Jaeger-LeCoultre, a manufacture rooted in the region since 1833. It brings together complications refined over decades, the tourbillon and the minute repeater, alongside a relentless pursuit of thinness, without ever compromising reliability. The result is a watch where mechanics become a spectacle, driven by traditional craftsmanship and continuous innovation.
Interview with Lionel Favre, Product Design Director.
Can you tell us more about how the Master Hybris Artistica Ultra Thin Minute Repeater project came to life?
The project developed in several phases. In 2014, we introduced Calibre 362, which went on to enjoy great success. However, it emerged at a time when the industry leaned toward more substantial watches. Today, it is being rediscovered, and more importantly, reinterpreted. We chose to completely revisit its aesthetics, particularly by incorporating sapphire to showcase its full complexity.
The intention was not to make everything transparent, as is sometimes the case with skeletonized designs, but rather to use sapphire bridges selectively. This creates a sense of lightness, as if the components are suspended in space. Visually, the effect is very compelling.
Revealing so much of the movement also raises the bar in terms of finishing.
Absolutely. Once the components are visible, every detail becomes crucial. All exposed elements must be finished to the highest standards: anglage, mirror polishing, snailing… [14 decorative techniques in total, editor’s note].
These are traditional finishing techniques that we continue to uphold. Preserving a sense of heritage is essential to us—innovation is not meant to replace tradition, but to highlight it. Today, complexity is no longer confined to mechanical construction alone; it also lies in the decorative approach and in the way the mechanics are enhanced.
Bringing together a minute repeater, a flying tourbillon, and automatic winding in a watch just 8.25 mm thick remains a major feat. Where do you draw the line? What compromises are necessary?
It is always possible to go thinner, but at the cost of reliability. One could create extremely slim pieces, but even slight distortion could stop the movement. That is not our objective. We design watches that are wearable, dependable, and suited to everyday use. Thinness, therefore, is not an end in itself; it must remain compatible with durability, precision, and real-life use.
It is a constant balancing act, where every tenth of a millimeter matters. In this calibre, everything has been conceived as an integrated whole, the minute repeater, the flying tourbillon, and the peripheral rotor, to reduce thickness without layering components, as also reflected in the architecture of Calibre 362. In total, seven patents were developed (including six in 2014).
Does the tourbillon also contribute to this pursuit of slimness?
Yes. Traditionally, a tourbillon adds height. Here, we removed the upper bridge to create a flying tourbillon, which required a complete redesign. We developed a system that allows the regulating organ to function without upper support. The balance spring was also adapted, featuring a specific S-shaped curve. This geometry improves the concentricity of oscillation, enhancing precision while meeting the constraints of thinness.
What about the sound in such a slim watch? How is it optimized?
Sound is a discipline in its own right. We collaborate with acoustic specialists from IAV (a laboratory specializing in acoustics and vibrations, affiliated with the École Polytechnique in Palaiseau), while also drawing on our own expertise developed through years of working on minute repeaters. From there, it becomes a matter of choice: do you prioritize power, or a more refined, lingering tone? Personally, I favor a sound that resonates and lasts, something enveloping rather than a sharp, dry “cling.”
With Calibre 362, we achieved a balance: a sound that is both clear and sufficiently powerful. It ultimately comes down to extremely precise adjustments, particularly of the gongs and hammers, as reflected in their specific construction. All our minute repeaters are validated by our CEO, Jérôme Lambert, and with experience, one learns to recognize a truly beautiful chime.
The activation system also differs from traditional minute repeaters.
Yes, and that is a key aspect. Traditionally, a lateral slide is used to wind the mechanism, which requires a certain amount of travel and therefore space. We developed a patented retractable push-button instead. At rest, it remains discreet; when activated, it extends to provide the necessary travel and wind the mechanism.
It was both a technical and aesthetic challenge: we needed to avoid an element that would appear too prominent or disproportionate. In the end, the system integrates seamlessly into the case, offering a solution that is both functional and elegant.
The peripheral rotor is almost invisible.
That is intentional. It is present and fully functional, yet visually discreet. Unlike a central rotor, it does not constantly draw attention. It contributes instead to the overall harmony of the piece..
Ultimately, this watch sits at the crossroads of two worlds.
Exactly. Our aim is to create timepieces that are both innovative and deeply rooted in tradition. The design must remain timeless, which requires restraint and a constant search for balance. We are not chasing effect. Here, the role of design is not to invent the mechanics, but to reveal and elevate them, a process that benefits from multiple perspectives, going beyond pure engineering.
