The philosophy on the use of black in Bulgari’s watch designs is based on the idea that black is much more than merely the absence of color – it’s a way of expressing both light and depth. It possesses a unique ability to enhance shapes, materials, and textures, offering an intensity and contrast that enrich the inherent aesthetic of each piece – as French artist Pierre Soulages so brilliantly demonstrates in his use of black paint, which he terms Outrenoir – ‘ultrablack’ or ‘beyond black’.
From the sheen of a lacquered black dial that both absorbs and reflects light, to the carbon veins that evoke noble marbling, or the smoothness of ceramic that captivates with its deep gloss – black is an infinite source for telling stories while arousing the senses.
A hallmark of the Octo collection (with the first Ultranero piece launched in 2017), Bulgari's use of black is not just for its intrinsic elegance, but also for its ability to transform designs. This is exemplified through two new Octo Roma watches, a three-hand and a chronograph, both in 100% black DLC steel, fully black. Thus, every component is designed to capture light through its shape, surface texture, and finishes.
A Classic, Revisited
The Octo Roma, first released in 2012, quickly established itself as an unusual, standout piece. Its octagonal shape drew inspiration from Italian architecture, with its eight-sided geometry echoing the vaults of the Basilica of Maxentius, built in the 4th century on one of Rome’s most emblematic architectural sites.
At the same time, it is an ultra-modern piece, featuring unconventional geometry that captures the essence of the circle and the octagon. Its signature Clou de Paris dial pays homage to the great Swiss watchmaking classics, supported by an in-house movement designed in Le Sentier and assembled in Neuchâtel. Ultimately, it is a uniquely transalpine creation, marrying Swiss horology with Italian flair, that celebrates the union of beauty and precision, of art and craftsmanship.
Today, Bulgari extends this dark finish to two new references within the Octo Roma collection: the Octo Roma Automatic Steel DLC, a three-hand model with a date function, and the Octo Roma Chronograph Steel DLC, featuring a chronograph function with date. These additions enrich the collection with a sporty and contemporary flair, seamlessly integrating into its standard lineup.
Different Watches, Same Spirit
Both pieces share the same Octo Roma DNA: a steel case with a design geometry that draws inspiration from the principles of ancient Roman architecture; two interchangeable straps, an in-house automatic movement with date that provides a 42-hour power reserve; and a screw-down crown with a ceramic insert for certified water resistance up to 100 meters.
Octo Roma Automatic Steel DLC: The Legacy Continues
Each of these two new watches has its own personality.
The automatic three-hand and date version offers a fresh take while remaining true to the original spirit of the Octo Roma. The piece maintains its 41 mm diameter and features a sober, unencumbered dial that gives the Clous de Paris pattern, so characteristic of the Octo Roma, the space to unfold its mesmerizing effect.
This subtle relief design, a time-honored hallmark of Swiss Haute Horlogerie, receives a surprisingly modern interpretation here, with the black DLC finish lending it a dual nature: from a distance, its black appearance is perfectly uniform; up close, however, each pyramid-shaped Clou de Paris captures light from its own unique angle, giving it a distinctive reflection. The dial comes alive, a private visual delight for its beholder.
It is at night that this dark finish shines brightest: indices and hands are filled with luminescent material, as are the collection’s two iconic hour markers – the "12" and the "6" that adorn each three-hand dial of an Octo Roma. The in-house BVL 191 movement, whose oscillating mass finished with Côtes de Genève graining can be admired through the sapphire case back, provides the Octo Roma Automatic with a 42-hour power reserve. The piece, available from July 2024, will come with two straps: textured rubber echoing the Clou de Paris pattern on the dial; and black alligator.
Octo Roma Chronograph Steel DLC : Sport-Chic Sophistication
The Octo Roma Chronograph Steel DLC presents a different vibe. Sportier, it comes in a slightly larger case measuring 42 mm. This size gives the bicompax chronograph layout more space to stand out. The Start/Stop and Reset pushers have been carefully integrated into the case, directly extending from the lugs, to maintain the Octo Roma line’s contemporary design. Shape, function, and ergonomics merge into a cohesive and harmonious whole, arranged according to the tenets of Roman architecture.
The Octo Roma Chronograph faithfully reproduces the complication's original design, with a small seconds at 3 o'clock, a 12-hour counter at 6 o'clock, and a 30-minute counter at 9 o'clock – and a large central seconds-hand. A discreet date window is positioned at 4:30. Powering this watch is Bulgari’s in-house automatic Caliber BVL 399, which beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers a 42-hour power reserve. For enhanced readability, the three counters sport a sunburst finish, while the hour-markers and hands are luminescent.
For the first time, the Octo Roma Chronograph is unveiled in a completely monochrome, sporty, sleek, and refined style. It is paired with a rubber strap with a Clous de Paris texture, mirroring the dial. Additionally, a black alligator strap, also provided, elevates the sport-chic aesthetic if and when a touch of elegance is de rigueur. The two straps are easily interchangeable thanks to the quick-release system.
