Diversity is the word that springs to mind when contemplating all the new releases unveiled by Vacheron Constantin at Watches and Wonders: diversity of expertise, complications and styles. Vacheron Constantin continues to explore new possibilities through an ever more varied offering, while remaining consistent with its heritage and the direction given by CEO Louis Ferla. This vision is illustrated once again through the classicism of the Traditionnelle collection, the minimalism of the Patrimony watches, the graceful silhouette of the Egérie, and the sport-chic styling of the Overseas.
Spectacular timepieces
Leading the procession of new releases are two breathtaking creations. “The first is the Berkley Grand Complication, which is nothing less than the most complicated watch ever made by the Maison – a unique feat,” emphasises Christian Selmoni, Style and Heritage Director. “Next, I should mention the Grand Lady Kalla: a spectacular jewellery creation in the form of a wristwatch entirely set with emerald-cut diamonds, whose central part – the watch head – is removable, allowing it to be converted into a pendant watch on a necklace set with pearls and onyx.”
A few figures provide some indication of the feat Vacheron Constantin has achieved with the Les Cabinotiers The Berkley Grand Complication watch: eight years of research and development, 2,826 components, and 12 months of assembly for a movement that includes 63 complications, seven more than the Reference 5760 presented in 2015. Commissioned by philanthropist William Berkley, this unique piece now stands as the most complicated watch in the world. One of its two faces displays a Chinese perpetual calendar programmed until 2193, a world first. “No patent has been filed on this model because the watchmakers at Vacheron Constantin did not want to reveal how they managed to translate the immense complexity of the Chinese calendar into a ‘perpetual’ configuration.”
The thrill of metamorphosis
Still in the realm of the spectacular, the Grand Lady Kalla necklace watch celebrates the historical bond between Vacheron Constantin and women since the company was founded in 1755. “Over time, Vacheron Constantin has always placed great importance on the expectations of women by immersing itself in artistic sensibilities, aesthetic and technical trends, as well as social codes and customs,” confirms Sandrine Donguy, Product and Innovation Director. This year, the manufacture gives a stunning demonstration of its expertise with this transformable jewellery creation composed of a watch and a tassel sautoir that can be worn in four different ways. Inspired by the iconic 1980 Kalla (30 carats of emerald-cut diamonds), itself heir to the impressive Kallista created in 1979 (130 carats of diamonds), this jewellery watch is suffused with light. The 45 carats of emerald-cut diamonds are complemented by Akoya pearls and onyx, creating a unique style that marries Art Deco with 21st-century aesthetics.
Ladies first !
Women are undoubtedly in the spotlight this year at Vacheron Constantin, which is presenting the first creative collaboration with one of its “One of not Many” partners. Vacheron Constantin and Haute Couture designer Yqing Yin have created two new pieces for the Egérie collection. The first is a concept watch that will not be made available commercially. Named Égérie The Pleats of Time, this unique piece brings together Haute Horlogerie, Haute Couture and Haute Parfumerie. Its rose gold case accented with diamonds opens onto a pastel lilac dial with a pleated texture. Designed to elicit a sensory experience, this concept watch features an innovative bracelet with the texture of fine lace, embroidered with mother-of-pearl fragments that release an exclusive fragrance created by Master Perfumer Dominique Ropion.
Alongside this concept watch, Vacheron Constantin and Yqing Yin have also created an Égérie moon phase limited to 100 pieces. This 37 mm rose gold Égérie features a lilac mother-of-pearl dial with a central pleated motif, and a diagonally-positioned moon phase display that lies between the crown and the Vacheron Constantin signature.
Twenty years of minimalism
In a more minimalist vein, Vacheron Constantin celebrates the 20th anniversary of the Patrimony collection this year. Born in 2004 and inspired directly by the ultra-thin watches developed by the Manufacture in the 1950s, the Patrimony collection tends to evolve through subtle touches. It’s not easy to improve on such an understated design, but Vacheron Constantin has taken up the challenge with a light refresh. Two new models have been added to the collection. A manual-winding Patrimony, presented in a new 39 mm rose gold or white gold case (a diameter very much in tune with the times), features a new ‘old silver’ dial, a customisable closed back and a strap in olive green or azure blue. The new Patrimony Retrograde Date Moon Phase model in white gold also sports a silvered dial and is complemented by an olive green alligator strap.
Complications in the spotlight
Horological technicality has always been one of the manufacture’s favourite fields of expression. This year, the Excellence Platinum collection welcomes a Traditionnelle tourbillon chronograph in a limited edition of 50 pieces. In terms of aesthetics, its 42.5 mm case, crown, dial, buckle and even the stitching on the strap are made of platinum, the most exclusive of precious materials. On the mechanical side, the spotlight is on the Calibre 3200, an exceptional manual-winding movement developed for the Maison’s 260th anniversary, which incorporates a monopusher chronograph regulated by a tourbillon at 12 o’clock, protected by a cage in the immediately recognisable shape of a Maltese cross. “This is a very rare offering, intended for connoisseurs and collectors, which has become a signature of the Maison,” says Christian Selmoni.
To round off the array of new releases in style, the much-loved Overseas collection has been expanded with a tourbillon model in titanium. Behind the dial lies the ultra-thin Calibre 2160, guaranteeing slender elegance for this sports-styled model with a blue dial. This latest Overseas is extremely attractive, thanks to lightweight and robust titanium, the fascinating tourbillon complication, and the versatility provided by the interchangeable strap system – in a choice of titanium, calfskin or rubber. Here again, variety is key, as four of the family members – automatic, chronograph and dual time – are now available in rose gold with a satin-finished sunburst green dial. Diversity is indeed the watchword!
