Vacheron Constantin opens a new chapter for the Overseas self-winding 35 mm model, introducing two high-jewellery versions for the first time, in 18K white gold and in 18K 5N pink gold, powered by the Manufacture movement, calibre 1088/1. Originally created in 2023, the 35 mm Overseas case was conceived as a timepiece to suit all discerning wrists in any situation. Its more streamlined dimensions make it intrinsically comfortable to wear, while retaining all of the aesthetic codes and inherent functionality of its larger Overseas counterparts.
The dazzling craft of gem-setting
Vacheron Constantin has been on a quest for excellence in the art of gem-setting since the 19th century, when it added the craft to its repertoire of métiers d’art. At that time, timepieces were not only confined to a waistcoat pocket but were also worn as jewellery and fashion accessories. The new Overseas Self-Winding 35 mm
High Jewellery watch is adorned with a total of 1,430 diamonds (~12.58 cts) and combines two cuts: brilliant and baguette.
The Maltese cross motif on the bezel – a signature of the Overseas collection, inspired by Vacheron Constantin’s emblem – is highlighted by the radiance of 60 invisibly set baguette-cut diamonds (~ 2.28 cts). Invisible setting is particularly challenging for the gem-setter as it creates a seamlessly gem-covered surface on which the stones appear to float above the gold surface with no visible means of support. First, the gem-setter creates a framework of gold rails, only 0.2 mm to 0.4 mm thick, which forms a secure grid structure that remains hidden once the gemstones are slotted into it. After creating the frame, the artisan must cut a tiny V-shaped groove along both sides of each diamond, to match the position and dimensions of the rails with a tolerance of only 0.02 millimetres, thus ensuring that the stones sit flush, with no gaps, overlaps or visible metal. This setting technique is so meticulous that it can take several hours for just one stone.
The serene beauty of the invisibly set baguettestones contrasts with the multifaceted sparkle of brilliant-cut diamonds on the dial and 18K gold bracelet. The dial is elegant and functional, displaying only the essentials of time and date, in order to maximise the visual impact of the snow-set diamond background – comprising 314 brilliant-cut diamonds (~ 1.65 ct). Combining artistry and precision, snow setting is another highly demanding technique, in which the gem- setter covers the entire surface of the gold dial base in diamonds of varying diameter, set in an order that appears to be random. In fact, the placement of every stone must be meticulously judged, to leave an absolute minimum of metal between the stones so that the entire surface refracts and reflects the light, like the effect of the sun on a sparkling field of snowflakes. Against this glittering backdrop, 12 baguette- cut diamonds serve as hour markers. The lugs and 18K gold bracelet are also snow-set, with a total of 884 brilliant-cut diamonds (~ 6.95 cts), with each link of the bracelet set separately before being carefully assembled.
One watch, three styles
Introduced to the Overseas collection in 2023, the 35 mm diameter case is designed not only to correspond with a modern aesthetic, but also to be suitable for any situation and comfortably worn by everyone regardless of wrist size. Its versatility is underlined by the easy interchangeability of its diamond-set gold bracelet and two straps that are delivered with the watch: one in white rubber and one in shiny alligator leather.
Adding a vivid splash of colour to the otherwise monochrome palette of the watch, the white gold model comes with a brilliant blue alligator-skin strap, while the pink gold model is delivered with a fuchsia-coloured alligator-skin strap. Each is secured with an 18K white gold or 18K 5N pink gold pin buckle to match the case metal; set with 62 brilliant-cut diamonds (~0.33 ct), the buckle may also be interchanged to fit another strap of the owner’s choice. As with all Overseas models, the owner needs no tool to easily and quickly change the bracelet, straps or buckle at will. Echoing the Maltese Cross motif found on the bezel the bracelets are outfitted with the easy-fit system inherent to the Overseas collection since 2016, a hidden micro-adjustment that provides the wearer with flawless comfort.
Vacheron Constantin’s self-winding calibre 1088/1
Calibre 1088/1 sets the pace for the Overseas Self- Winding High Jewellery, driving the hours, minutes, central seconds and date in an aperture. The central seconds is also outfitted with a stop-seconds function, ensuring to-the-second accuracy when setting the time.
The 144-component automatic movement operates at a frequency of 4Hz and is equipped with a 40-hour power reserve.
Visible through the transparent sapphire crystal case back, the movement is very finely finished and features visible Côtes de Genève decoration and bevelled bridges, as well as the Overseas collection’s emblematic 22K gold rotor adorned with a compass rose.
Questions for Christian Selmoni, Style & Heritage Director, Vacheron Constantin
Can you tell us more about Vacheron Constantin’s legacy in jewellery watches?
Dating back to its founding in 1755, Vacheron Constantin has a fascinating history of jewellery watches – brimming with creativity, innovation and expertise. Always mindful of aesthetic and technical trends, as well as social norms and customs, this jewellery expertise helped to forge the Maison’s strong bond with women, taking their evolving tastes, desires and expectations into consideration. Diamond-set watches in our private collection include elaborate pendant and chatelaine-style watches from the Art Nouveau period at the end of the 19th century and strong geometric shapes that characterised Art Deco style in the 1920s and ‘30s. It’s notable that since the late 19th century, Vacheron Constantin’s designers have continued to imagine jewellery watches where precious gems are an integral part of the design, rather than simply a highlight on the bezel or lugs. Because we have been nurturing the craft of gem-setting in our own workshops for a century and a half, our designers and gem-setters have been able to work hand-in-hand, constantly developing new ways to celebrate the beauty of precious stones.
How does a fully diamond-set model fit into a collection designed for a sporty and relaxed lifestyle?
Culture is constantly evolving and today, in every aspect of life, the strict boundaries that once existed between formality andinformality have become increasingly blurred. This has liberated designers in every field to rethink how aesthetics and purpose work together. At Vacheron Constantin, it has also encouraged us to apply the savoir-faire of our gem-setters in new ways. In this context, the Overseas Self-Winding 35mm High Jewellery can be seen as a quintessentially modern expression of a timepiece – endlessly versatile, transcending all the outdated rules and categories.
The founding of Vacheron Constantin in Geneva in 1755 marked the beginning of a continuous quest for excellence. This quest, to which the Maison has maintained unwavering commitment for 270 years, defines every element of Vacheron Constantin’s identity to this day.
The quest for technical excellence is expressed through the mastery of mechanical complications, timekeeping precision, miniaturisation, original displays, fine finishing, and a vocation to always innovate.
The quest for artistry fosters not only the creation of elegant designs and intricate decoration but also enduring support for craft and artisans, including long-standing patronage of the Arts and culture.
The human quest is manifested not only in a passion for continuous learning and improvement but also through a deep commitment to the transmission of knowledge and savoir-faire.
This quest, encapsulated in the words of François Constantin in 1819 to “do better if possible, and that is always possible”, has served as the ultimate inspiration for a Maison focused on creativity and innovation for 270 years.
