There are different ways of breaking a record. For example, Piaget's latest addition to its Altiplano Ultimate Concept collection measures the same two millimetres thick as the very first model introduced in 2018. Two millimetres including the tourbillon. Yes, that's right, including the tourbillon.
The Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon measures two millimetres thick but, unlike its predecessor and every other watch to have limboed under this incredibly low bar, it has a tourbillon. Which could be described as flying, as there is no upper bridge, but there is no lower bridge either. This is an annular tourbillon, secured at its periphery.
At first glance, it appears Piaget has simply added a tourbillon to the existing movement architecture. As though anyone could simply add a tourbillon to something thinner than a two Swiss Franc coin. As though a tourbillon were (as it sometimes seems to be) a mere technical flourish, well within the capabilities of dozens of brands. Watchmaking doesn't work like that.
A tourbillon is an accumulation of components. It comprises a cage which, being a cage, encloses the watch's regulating organ, namely the balance wheel and balance spring, lever and escape wheel. The cage rotates this organ on its axis, taking the place of the second wheel in the gear train. Think of it as a sandwich containing the already incredibly thin steak of the Altiplano Ultimate Concept. And there is an art to making a good sandwich.
Piaget, at its manufacture in La Côte-aux-Fées, had already done away with the watch's traditional structure, which is also sandwich-like. The case represents the two buns: one on the bottom (the case back), one on the top (the crystal and the bezel) with the steak (the movement) in the middle. Piaget shaved two of these layers: the back of the case becomes the movement's baseplate, with recesses for its components. This is how the brand whittled its Altiplano Ultimate down to 3.65mm before pushing the needle to the maximum (or rather, minimum) and claiming the record for the world's thinnest watch in any category with the Altiplano Ultimate Concept.
This record was broken shortly after by Bulgari and the 1.8mm of the Octo Finissimo Ultra. Then Richard Mille decided it would have a go and reached new heights (or lows) with the RM UP-01 Ferrari at 1.75mm. Meanwhile, Piaget was already working on its Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon. The thinnest tourbillon watch ever.
It beats the previous record-holder, the Bulgari Finissimo Tourbillon at 3.95mm thick. Piaget has almost halved that. In the ultra-thin arena, records are set within a hair's breadth. Piaget has excelled in keeping a low profile.
