Customers who already have several gold watches want the next one to be in platinum. And those who already have steel generally migrate to titanium. These are the natural evolutions of any enthusiast wishing to raise the level of their collection.
For many brands, titanium is indeed a more interesting alternative to steel. It is a less common, more exclusive material, endowed with notable technical characteristics. Among these: reduced weight, excellent resistance to shocks and scratches, a relatively silky feel, and a greater ability to remain at room temperature when in contact with the skin. All this without being much more expensive than traditional stainless steel. On the other hand, the material has a machining constraint: being very hard, it requires more advanced tools that are themselves more robust.
For all these reasons, titanium is appropriate for the “tool watch” segment. It is even the last accessible step without having too much impact on the price of collections. Because when one wishes to move another step higher in terms of rarity and strength, the other options are ceramic or carbon... which sometimes cost as much as gold.
Titanic!
Within the SUB 300 family, until now there had been only one titanium model, moreover a limited edition paying tribute to Clive Cussler. It was in response to the massive enthusiasm for this reference that the brand decided to generalize its use.
The distinguished diver, born in the 1960s, is therefore now offered entirely in a titanium case, screw down caseback, bezel and crown, and as part of the regular collection. It is renamed the SUB 300 Ti5 for the occasion, for Grade 5 Titanium.
This is the most widely used grade of titanium. It is composed of 90% pure titanium, 6% aluminum, and 4% vanadium. It is most often contrasted with Grade 2 Titanium, considered pure titanium, but less resistant than Grade 5, which is preferred almost exclusively in watchmaking, but not only there (medical, aeronautical, space, etc.).
However, the new collection is not limited to the addition of titanium. Doxa immediately offers all its emblematic dial colors: its iconic orange, black, blue, red, green and white. The latter has its dial entirely covered in Super-LumiNova. At night, it becomes a veritable beacon of a soft green glow that makes reading easier. Guaranteed effect!
Still among the updates, each model will be offered on a Dive Flex bracelet. It has a “woven” appearance. This will differentiate the new titanium range from the steel versions, which are mostly equipped with smooth or rice grain bracelets (only one reference comes on NATO).
Une collection 100% certifiée COSC
Sur le plan technique, la marque a également entrepris de certifier COSC la totalité de cette nouvelle collection SUB 300 Ti5. Chaque mouvement SW200-1 automatique passe donc par les tests du Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres pour recevoir le précieux sésame qui garantit à l’utilisateur une précision de -4 à +6 secondes par jour.
On pourra objecter que, pour une montre de plongée, la précision à la seconde n’est pas critique. Et ce sera vrai. Mais ce serait mal comprendre la démarche de Doxa. Avec cette certification, couplée à l’apport du titane et du nouveau bracelet, la marque poursuit un but distinct : proposer à chaque client le maximum de valeur ajoutée, sans faire varier d’un centime le prix de ses modèles (toujours CHF 2'750, + CHF 100 pour la Whitepearl à cadran luminescent). Puissent bien d’autres horlogers s’en inspirer...
A 100% COSC certified collection
Technically, the brand has also undertaken to have the entirety of this new SUB 300 Ti5 collection COSC certified. Each automatic SW200-1 movement therefore undergoes the tests of the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute to receive the precious certification guaranteeing the wearer a precision of -4 to +6 seconds per day.
One could object that, for a dive watch, accuracy to the second is not critical. And that would be true. But that would be to misunderstand Doxa’s approach. With this certification, combined with the addition of titanium and the new bracelet, the brand is pursuing a distinct goal: to offer each customer the maximum added value, without changing the price of its models by a single cent (still CHF 2,750, + CHF 100 for the Whitepearl with its luminous dial). May many other watchmakers take inspiration from this...