There was a time when the Royal Oak Offshore was known simply as The Beast. When it launched in 1993, its oversized proportions, exposed rubber details and unapologetically sporty attitude sent a message that was very much of its time. But there’s another side to the big, bad and beastly aesthetic, and if we’re honest with ourselves it’s one that alienates a significant proportion of watch lovers – it speaks of overt masculinity and leaves little to no space for the female aficionado.
I have to admit to spending many of the early years of my career in watch journalism – one that’s soon to come up on two decades – somewhat forcing an interest in sportier montres. During an era before the scaling back of diameters and thicknesses to a more manageable profile, traditional dress watches were far more accessible and acceptable for women collectors. And while as a teen I may have, from time to time, snaffled a couple of my ruggedly built six-foot-four father’s timepieces (including a particular favourite, his indestructible all-black Casio G-Shock), they inevitably swallowed my wrist and were more of a statement of rebellion than style. With time and maturity, tool watches became ‘something my dad would wear’ and not much of a complement to my personal look.
That’s why, over recent years, when watchmakers such as Audemars Piguet have shown their open-mindedness to significant size reductions it’s been a boon for those of us who don’t feel like forcing the issue with a plus-40mm hunk of utility horology. And as a bonus, when it comes to the Royal Oak Offshore’s more dainty iterations, that rebellious DNA remains intact – only now it arrives with a lighter touch, a slimmer profile and a distinctly sun-soaked state of mind.
Audemars Piguet’s trio of new and hyper-summery 37mm Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph launches – released alongside three more traditionally-proportioned and subtly hued 42mm versions – come with absolutely no squeamishness about their target audience. Bringing salty skin, shimmering glamour and languid golden hour lingering to mind, these are watches still designed for movement and spontaneity, but also wear their feminine colours exceedingly well.
Still, the biggest news sits beneath the dial. Making its debut in the 37mm Offshore line is Audemars Piguet’s new in-house Calibre 6401, a movement that represents a significant technical evolution for the collection. Developed over five years and replacing the long-serving Calibre 2385, the integrated self-winding chronograph movement combines a column wheel architecture with a vertical clutch system, delivering smoother activation and improved responsiveness alongside a healthy 55-hour power reserve. Visible for the first time through a sapphire caseback, it sports fetching Geneva stripes, alternating polished and satin-brushed finishes and a dark rhodium-toned oscillating weight in 22-carat pink gold.
The movement’s arrival has also prompted a subtle redesign of the Offshore itself. The case is thinner than previous iterations, while a newly curved bezel and reworked push-piece guards soften the watch’s silhouette without sacrificing any of its athletic character. The familiar Tapisserie dial has evolved too, with larger squares, more assertive Arabic numerals and a cleaner, more balanced layout thanks to the relocation of the date display to six o’clock. It’s a carefree summer companion with some serious substance beneath the surface.
And as for these watches’ most noticeable new features? When it comes to colour, the assignment was understood flawlessly. The headline act arrives in lightweight titanium with a Mediterranean-fresh turquoise dial and matching rubber strap, a first for the 37mm Offshore family. For those looking for something sweeter, a second titanium model pairs vivid candy pink tones with a bezel set with 32 brilliant-cut diamonds, a meeting of technical watchmaking and playful glamour-puss style. The third iteration perhaps strikes the most sophisticated note of all. An 18-carat pink gold case frames a light sky blue dial and matching rubber strap, while diamond-set details and pink gold accents add warmth to an otherwise cool palette.
This all goes without saying that these Offshores continue to meet their original brief – tough, bold and ready for anything – perfectly. Impromptu seaside dips and rolls in the sand come without any hint of reticence as these cute-yet-capable tool watches have lost none of their signature durability. Their size does nothing to dilute or diminish neither DNA nor presence – in fact, perhaps their wearability is an enhancement of both. The Royal Oak Offshore may have been born a beast, but this summer it has discovered its soft side – and it may just gain a few more fans before the autumn’s here, too.
