Together with my wife I have been on a quest in recent years: It is hard to find proper, mechanical watches for ladies that are not frou-frou. Watches that are not pink, mother of pearl, or littered with gem stones. We have been looking for discreet yet powerhouse statement watches that would make a room full of watch nerds just listen. If made of gold, all the better, since women are equally keen on showing off success as men are. Vacheron Constantin just came to our rescue. With the two new 34.5-millimeter versions in the Overseas collection – one in pink gold and one in stainless steel – the brand gives a feminine touch to sporty elegance.
The pieces with an obvious 1970s inspiration, the decade when integrated bracelets migrated from the heads of designers like Gerald Genta and Jorg Hysek (who created Vacheron’s 222 in 1977) onto wrists around the world. At first somewhat hesitantly–this trend was never as strong back then as it is today.
Both pieces come in three styles, as they are delivered with a rubber and an alligator strap alongside the metallic bracelet whose links are inspired by the Maltese cross, which has been part of Vacheron Constantin’s design language since 1880.
The two versions are vastly different in their expressions, thanks to the lacquered dials. The gold version is all monochrome, where the precious metal is extended onto the dial with gold hands and gold indexes. Gold on gold on gold in, and yet you can easily read the time – love it! The only thing that slightly breaks the monochromatic impression is the white background on the dates in the square aperture at three o’clock.
If the gold version is a calm, statement in a hue reminiscent of a sunrise, the steel version is more of an exclamation mark. It is proof that deep-red and purple dials are here to stay, and after the sun sets, the white gold markers and hands are aglow thanks to SuperLuminova®, just like on its golden sibling. Both the textured rubber and the alligator straps – of course these are all super easy to change without the use of tools – are of the same deep red color as the dial, which makes this timepiece really stand out. By the way, the extra straps of the gold version are white, which makes this watch suitable for both the beach and more wintery surrounds.
Despite the diminutive size, the new Overseas Self-Winding feature all the hallmarks we have come to love with the Overseas collection which was introduced in 1996: the hexagonal Maltese Cross inspired bezel, the tonneau case shape, sword hands and, as aforementioned, an excellent readability.
According to the brand these new, more compact proportions are broadening the way in which the watch can be worn and experienced today – and my wife and I couldn’t agree more. By the way, our quest is not yet over. We salute Vacheron Constantin. But when will more brands follow suit with proper, authentic, no-nonsense, mechanical powerhouse for women?
