WORLDTEMPUS - 18 November 2011
Elizabeth Doerr
London was hopping over the weekend. Not only was a certain Christmas spirit evident in the air despite warmer temperatures than expected, but SalonQP really made a huge splash this year.
Now in its third year, this edition took place for the first time at the beautiful Saatchi Gallery in Chelsea, a fitting location for such wondrous mechanical treasures and distinguished exhibitors and visitors.
English Watchmaking
What really caught my eye was the obvious resurgence in English watchmaking. Naturally, Roger Smith is the clear heir to George Daniels as Britain's premier bespoke watchmaker. He was present at the fair with the final horological project Daniels was involved in: the Co-Axial Anniversary Edition. His booth, situated between A. Lange & Söhne and Nomos, was consistently hopping and it became difficult to have a look at the beautiful wristwatch for all the admirers. Smith reports a real uptick in business and has hired further technicians for his Isle of Man workshop; he would also gladly hire more.
Across from Smith, one entered the “independent hall,” which boasted the likes of MB&F debuting the LM1 in Britain, Peter Speake-Marin with his world premiere Spirit, De Bethune with a new version of the DB25, Ressence with its ever-popular Platform Watch and Heritage Watch Manufactory with complicated masterpieces. Needless to say, the hall was heavy with traffic and the public's interest in the artistic side of watchmaking remains piqued.
Hometown Boys
However, it was hard for any marque present to compete with the obvious popularity of Bremont in the young brand's home country. Nick and Giles English have conquered the hearts of their homeland's watch-buying public with a concept and a product that is transparent, honest, accessible and incredibly well made. These same adjectives could also be used to describe the brothers themselves: theirs is a story so real that it could apply to any small business owner with a passion for timekeepers. After deciding that life is simply too short to waste counting beans for someone else's benefit, the aviation-crazy brothers decided to fulfill a dream.
Six years later, the efforts of the English brothers and technical director Peter Roberts – himself a legendary watchmaker in the English horological scene having instructed the likes of Speake-Marin and Stephen Forsey – caught the eye of a prominent artist and musician: none other than Ron Wood of the Rolling Stones, who was on the lookout for an “English” collaboration.
The result of this collaboration is the first of 14 marine clocks whose movement (designed and executed by Roberts) is entirely manufactured and assembled in the UK. They are hand-painted by Wood.
This may sound like a typical high-profile collaboration to generate publicity, but it most decidedly is not. First off, Wood approached Bremont. Second, Wood is an acclaimed artist in his own right apart from his participation in the high-profile rock-and-roll band. His paintings have sold for up to one million pounds. Third, Roberts' clock is the real deal: a quality product based on traditional elements.
If that weren't enough, it was clear who the locals were rooting for over the weekend: Nick English's talk during the lecture series was standing room only – with far more people listening than any other talk. Naturally, the appearance of Wood at SalonQP on the opening night generated quite a bit of interest as well. Icing on the cake.
Legacy continues
Other British watchmakers were also in attendance. Aside from Speake-Marin, new brands Schofield and John Isaac also debuted here. Schofield Watch Company's sole model thus far is a lovely limited edition GMT timepiece called Signalman powered by an automatic Soprod movement – the relatively accessible price of admission will have you mainly purchasing the good design that this watch exudes. John Isaac Genève, a brand that launched in May 2011, was on hand to talk about its “tradition remixed”: the designer's mechanical ETA-powered watches, which are really exceptionally good value for money, are already available at Harrods, Le Bon Marche, Village and Colette's.
If this year's SalonQP was any indication, English watchmaking is really heading back into the spotlight.
