Top 5 Geneva Watch Days Collaborations

1. Bvlgari × Vianney Halter, the Octo enters a new universe

Probably one of the finest pieces seen at the show. With the Octo, one almost naturally expects the extreme slimness that has made the collection’s reputation. But here, Vianney Halter’s touch called for something else: more relief, several displays, a real mechanical presence. The result is therefore less slim than what Bvlgari has accustomed us to with the Octo, but it works wonderfully. The silhouette of the collection is immediately recognisable, while also revealing Halter’s retrofuturistic universe, multiple dials and characteristic blue hands. A true meeting between two identities, without either one overshadowing the other.

2. Hublot × Jeff Koons

Announced at the beginning of the week, the collaboration between Hublot and Jeff Koons immediately sparked reactions. It is difficult to imagine a more logical marriage: on one side, a Maison that has always championed “The Art of Fusion”, and on the other, an artist who for more than forty years has transformed familiar objects into icons of contemporary art. Balloon Dog, Rabbit, mirrored surfaces, plays on proportions: Koons works precisely with materials, volumes and perception, three areas that Hublot loves to explore. Whether you like it or not, the encounter makes sense and is impossible to ignore.

3. Breitling and Miles Davis

Miles Davis actually wore a Navitimer ref. 806 Mk5 in the 1960s, at a time when the tool watch was also becoming a style object. To mark the centenary of his birth, Breitling pays tribute to him with a Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 limited to 500 pieces. Reverse panda dial, cream Super-LumiNova, Twin Jet logo: everything refers back to his watch from the period. A pairing that seems almost obvious, given how much the Navitimer was already part of his look.

4. Oris × The Muppets, Gonzo takes control!

Gonzo may not be the most elegant of the Muppets, but it took a character like him to awaken the ProPilot X Calibre 115. After Kermit and Miss Piggy, Oris dresses the watch in a blue, red and yellow gradient. The whole thing is completed by a chilli-shaped power reserve hand, a nod to one of Gonzo’s shirts. But the best detail is elsewhere: once the watch is fully wound, Gonzo’s face appears directly on the mainspring barrel thanks to laser engraving. It then disperses as the energy is released. A small playful detail, but very well integrated into the mechanics.

5. Louis Erard × Bernardo d’Orey

Louis Erard is now accustomed to this kind of encounter. Last year, the highly successful Fil d’Or with Sylvie Villa and Mark Miehlbradt already diverted a technique from microelectronics to work with 24-carat gold wires. In 2026, the material changes with Bernardo d’Orey and straw marquetry. The Portuguese artist selects rye stalks, opens them, flattens them and then assembles them by hand. Here, 28 sections make up the blue “Broken Ice” dial, with the orientations of the fibres constantly changing the way the light plays across the surface. Around twelve hours of work are required for each dial, and no two can be strictly identical.