French gets it. In this language, a timepiece isn't designated by where it's worn (the wrist-watch) but how it's fastened (montre bracelet). What's more, the word doesn’t distinguish strap from bracelet. What distinguishes it from its erstwhile counterpart, the pocket watch, is what's wrapped around your arm. This difference between the two longstanding rival tongues is of special importance when discussing a special kind of timepiece. The kind where the bracelet matters about as much as the watch itself. The kind where the links are a thing of beauty. The kind where making, assembling and meshing them is a work of art. The kind that are so willowy and special they're almost what clients are actually buying.
Yet, bracelets are a wide and various category, so allow me to be more specific. Since we're talking precious, there won't be any sports watches in this selection. Nor will there be high jewellery and one-offs where the watch head is an afterthought, a pretext or the sideshow to a jewel. The notion of timepiece must come above all else, and it has to be fitted with a bracelet so precious it could stand on its own, without a watch head, and still be worthy of praise.
1. Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse 5738/1R
The Golden Ellipse was already an intriguing, thin and supremely dressy timepiece. And then Patek Philippe went on and changed its appearance altogether. Based on the rose gold and black 5738, this “/1” version is quite unique, as much as its bracelet. Crafted in the spirit of a chain, it's made of 363 parts including 300 oval links, arranged by rows of eight and wrapped around straight bars that contribute to the overall motif. They're not so much meshed as woven, and almost give off a cloth vibe. It's not exactly light, but so very flexible you can almost forget you're wearing it. Also, the copious amounts of space between the links will make for perfect breathing in the hot and/or moist season, which is far from always the case.
2. Cartier Privé Tank Normale
There is nothing habitual or even regular about the Tank Normale. Despite its mundane call sign, it's part of the high-end Cartier Privé collection. As the ruby cabochon on the crown signals, this version is entirely made of platinum, down to the clasp. If you think this seven-link bracelet is wide, it's actually not. It's the case that's on the small side, with a 32 x 25 mm format. The links are not exactly thin, nor are they light, so this platinum bracelet Tank Normale is also unusually heavy. But then again, that's often what platinum buyers are looking for. In this instance, this series of full platinum pieces is inspired by the ones Cartier London (the one place where all the auction record breaking Tanks originate) made in the 1930's (the heyday of Cartier having several creative policies depending on the city).
3. Rolex 1908 Settimo
What possessed Rolex to do such a thing ? Introduced as an extension of the thin dress automatic line that's the 1908, the Settimo is so precious it's almost off-character for Rolex. The word means seventh in Italian, although that language has little to do with the frame of mind that presides over the making of Rolex timepieces. Seven for as many links in this finely articulated bracelet, made of yellow gold. Seventh as its place in the list of bracelets & straps currently available at Rolex that are specific to them. Just like the President or Flat Jubilee, the Settimo's clasp is invisible. A crown signals where to open the two-blade thing. This Crownclasp device gives off the impression of uninterrupted class...and width as the Settimo is absolutely not tapered.
4. Chopard L'Heure du Diamant
Chopard is on a roll, and seriously elevating their L'Heure du Diamant collection. What was once a hotchpotch collection of dated things is now vibrant and very cleverly made, as witnessed by two design elements. One is the open setting on the caseband, as intricate as lattice. The other is this bracelet, made of white gold. With one link per row, it's part of the roll bracelet family, an often overlooked type of attachment, generally seen in sports watches. But here, the extensive polishing, the entailing softness and the continuity with the dial's ribbing make it an unmistakably precious and elaborate creation, but most of all, very thoroughly thought.
5. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface 'Or Deco'
The Milanese mesh bracelet is a classic, overwhelmingly used to add a vintage-y feel to diver watches. In these cases, the metal thread they're woven from is often coarse And as a rule, they're ill-suited to a round case, because the mesh is easiest done with straight ends. That's where the Reverso comes in, because its rectangular shape makes it a natural candidate to receive a Milanese bracelet. And so it's been fitted on the Reverso Tribute Monoface 'Or Deco'. What's more, you have to admit that, even if it's not your thing, the full rose gold look has a warm, dressy feel to it that makes this piece stand out. Be warned though, that Milanese mesh can never be completely bendable. The meshing is too dense to allow it. As a result, it won't fit snugly on all wrists and you'll need to make sure the curving is right for you. Luckily, the Or Deco comes in two sizes.
FAQ :
Q: What is the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse "/1"?
A: The Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse "/1" is a rose gold and black reinterpretation of the 5738, fitted with a woven chain-like bracelet made of 363 parts, including 300 oval links arranged in rows of eight around straight bars.
Q: What is the Cartier Privé Tank Normale in platinum?
A: The Cartier Privé Tank Normale in platinum is a 32 x 25mm watch with a ruby cabochon crown, a seven-link platinum bracelet, and a fully platinum clasp. Its design revives Cartier London's 1930s Tank models.
Q: What is the Rolex 1908 Settimo?
A: The Rolex 1908 Settimo is a dress watch extending the 1908 line, fitted with a seven-link yellow gold bracelet and an invisible Crownclasp, like the President and Flat Jubilee bracelets. "Settimo" means seventh in Italian.
Q: What is a Milanese mesh bracelet?
A: A Milanese mesh bracelet is woven from fine interlocking metal wire, traditionally used on diving watches for a vintage look. Jaeger-LeCoultre fitted one to its rectangular Reverso Tribute Monoface "Or Deco," a shape well-suited to the mesh's straight ends.
