It’s not a revolution, just an evolution the fundamental trends already emerging from the new models presented by the brands exhibiting at Watches and Wonders, in Geneva’s grand hotels or at Time to Watches confirm those of last year. Let’s dive into the details.
“We try to bring something innovative to the table in all that we do. Whether in terms of materials, technology or complications, we always seek to cultivate the unexpected and this will also be the case in 2024. When it comes to design, H. Moser & Cie. has built its reputation on the elegant, dressy watch segment that represents a firm foundation. Despite the explosion of sporty-chic watches, we strive to maintain a good balance between our different collections and the elegant watch segment remains strong.”
Edouard Meylan, CEO H. Moser & Cie.
TECHNICAL OR PRECIOUS MATERIALS AND BRIGHT COLORS
Ceramics in (almost) every color, sapphire crystal cases featuring a multitude of shades, unexpected combinations of artistic crafts... Once again this year, technological innovation enables watchmakers to unleash their creativity. A rainbow array of colors can be seen on cases, as exemplified by Hublot’s latest models, the Big Bang Unico Saxem Green with its mint green case, or the Classic Fusion Tourbillon Orlinski Ceramic in sky blue or bright yellow versions.
Dials welcome all manner of hues: Tuscan copper at Bulgari on the Octo Finissimo; pale green in the poetic creations of Van Cleef & Arpels; “orange, green and purple” for Hublot says Ricardo Guadalupe; “gray, green and purple” for Cyrus according to its President, Pablo Richard; while Christelle Rosnoblet pinpoints “sandy beige, intense purple and luminous terracotta orange” for Speake Marin.
Patek Philippe’s CEO Thierry Stern designates purple as the obvious winner: “I’m surprised by the success of purple. It’s very powerful on the new Nautilus and it’s the first time we’ve had so many calls from women customers wanting to buy the model. The color is beautiful and goes very well with rose gold.”
Among the precious materials, watchmakers are displaying a renewed penchant for yellow gold, a retro-looking alloy used on Piaget’s Polo 79 reviving the chic spirit of the 1980s, as well as on a new Bulgari Bulgari unveiled in January at LVMH Watch Week. Various gold alloys are also in the spotlight, including Sand Gold from Audemars Piguet and Magic Gold from Hublot.
SPORTY CHIC & TITANIUM
Watchmaking continues to ride the sporty-chic wave that has been surging in recent years, yielding an abundance of integrated bracelets, case designs inspired by the 1970s/80s, rubber straps... Today, we expect watches to be both comfortable and versatile, sporty enough to keep up with all our outdoor adventures, whether on the ski slopes or on the deck of a boat.
They must however also be sufficiently elegant for wearing in the office and at parties. Titanium is the ideal material to meet all these requirements. “Lightness and strength: titanium remains the star material in 2024”, says the Trilobe team. At Grand Seiko, Munehisa Shibasaki, Director, Senior Vice President, also mentions a new titanium alloy: “Brilliant Hard Titanium is an alloy exclusive to Grand Seiko.
It is brighter than traditional titanium, making polished surfaces even shinier, while also twice as hard as standard stainless steel.” Meanwhile, Chopard is also showing an interest in titanium, witness its chronometer-certified Alpine Eagle XL Chrono and an ultra-thin chronograph also made in this material.
HERITAGE & INNOVATION
There are no particular “star” complications this year, as all complications are in the spotlight. A tourbillon featured in a titanium Overseas model from Vacheron Constantin; a split-seconds chronograph in the Monaco collection from TAG Heuer; a perpetual calendar hinted at by Chopard: horological innovation and technical sophistication are set to play a key role.
One can also expect to see some innovative materials, such as Carbonium at Ulysse Nardin, as CEO Patrick Pruniaux explains: “Known for its exceptional resistance and lightness, it offers the advantage of a 40% smaller environmental footprint than other carbon composites.” Some of these innovations will be aimed at greater sustainability.
Chopard is working on a more sustainable titanium. TAG Heuer is equipping its Aquaracer with the Solargraph movement, whose battery is recharged by light and which, according to Julien Tornare, “also demonstrates the brand’s desire to innovate while taking sustainability into consideration”. Hublot is presenting its second collaboration with Nespresso.
“2024 will be the year of the tourbillon, the queen of complications, greatly appreciated by enthusiasts and collectors alike. We are delighted to unveil the new Etheral Twin Orbital Tourbillon: a timepiece with a new case and a totally innovative Manufacture movement. The design is equally original, as always aligned with the distinctive aesthetic codes of our Maison.”
Pablo Richard, President Cyrus
“Red stands out as a key color at this show, subtly present on the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Panda and the new Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph. Innovation is embedded in TAG Heuer’s DNA. The launch of the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph is a perfect example, demonstrating our ongoing commitment to extraordinary movements. Our approach also includes pushing the boundaries of watchmaking technology through avant-garde design concepts. This year, we are exploring new materials such as titanium, perfectly mastered and offering unique renderings, as exemplified in our two Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph models. This diversification in terms of materials symbolizes our constant desire to innovate in terms of both aesthetics and technology.”
Julien Tornare, CEO TAG Heuer
TOWARDS GENDER-NEUTRAL WATCHMAKING?
Are XXL formats on their way out? While certain large diameters remain, depending on the market and the nature of the models – diving watches or sports chronographs, for example, generally remain fairly imposing – the overall trend is definitely towards smaller watch sizes. This is confirmed by Patek Philippe’s Thierry Stern: “For a Grand Complication model, its movement means there is a certain minimal diameter one cannot escape.
There is however a very clear tendency towards downsizing.” The result is that 38 or 39mm diameters are becoming increasingly common for all wrists, regardless of gender. Even brands that still offer larger sizes corroborate this, as Speake Marin’s CEO Christelle Rosnblet points out: “We don’t make any gender distinctions in our collections. A woman can wear a 42mm or a Ripples in 40.3mm, there are no rules. Our collector clients operate mostly on the basis of their personal aesthetic crushes.”
“Our main launch this spring is a new, ultra-thin 41mm Alpine Eagle in titanium, equipped with a partially openworked movement. It is definitely part of the sporty-chic universe, interpreted in a slightly more elegant direction. Titanium has the great advantage of being light and very comfortable to wear. I’d say this new Alpine Eagle Tech is a watch for gentlemen who appreciate discreet luxury.”
Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Co-President Chopard
LADIES FIRST!
While a unisex approach is on the rise, women are also the focus of attention with watches in 36 or 37mm sizes and an ever-increasing number of watches equipped with mechanical movements. In this respect one naturally thinks of Vacheron Constantin, which continues to develop its Égérie line; Hermès, which is launching its brand-new 36mm sporty-chic Cut collection primarily aimed at women; as well as Breitling, with its Chronomat 36 developed in collaboration with Victoria Beckham.
Meanwhile, Vacheron Constantin is launching the Grand Lady Kalla, described by Christian Selmoni as “a spectacular jewelry creation in the form of a wristwatch entirely set with emerald-cut diamonds and featuring a removable central part – the watch itself – that that can be converted into a pendant watch in the form of a necklace set with pearls and onyx”. He adds: For several years now, our women clients have been increasingly interested in watches with high technical content such as perpetual calendars, tourbillons, etc., while more classic feminine models – with or without gemsetting – are definitely still in favor.
Finally, and this is a fundamental trend, we’re hearing more and more talk about watches in different sizes, rather than watches designed specifically for a male or female audience.
“The current trend in the luxury world in general is towards products that create interest or desire regardless of the purchaser’s gender and that are designed to be worn equally well by women and men. While this trend is gradually spreading to watchmaking, the choice of products is naturally a matter of personal preference. It’s also worth noting that more and more women are showing an interest in fine watchmaking and developing a strong expertise and interest in the field. This is excellent news for the growth of the industry. By way of example, we’re seeing an increase in the number of women won over by Freak X models.”
Patrick Pruniaux, CEO Ulysse Nardin
“In recent years, we have continually grown our range for women, reaching a 16 % ratio that we aim to increase to 30 %. As mentioned, we recently introduced a new line for ladies with the Chronomat Automatic 36 Victoria Beckham collection and this year we will be launching a smaller diameter in an existing collection.”
Georges Kern, CEO Breitling
“Hermès has never focused on performance. Sporty-chic watches are user-friendly objects. They are watches that accompany their wearers throughout their lifetime and all day long – even when swimming or diving. While some have said that the H08 radiates a sporty spirit, it’s not a sports watch. The same goes for the Hermès Cut, our new sports line with a Manufacture movement that was designed mainly for women yet features a universal style and 36mm diameter that will probably also appeal to some men.”
Laurent Dordet, CEO La Montre Hermès
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