These designs matter. Each represents a new design language, and each has, in its own way, meant a paradigm shift in luxury and collectability. You might wonder why some of the most popular watches of the 21st century aren’t here. It is because we have not allowed remakes or updates of existing collections. Yes, we are very aware that some of these watches could be interpreted as such – but when that is the case (pun intended), we felt that the update was sufficient to make it a new watch in its own right. We wanted to award the new winds of horology, and these are now being remade, updated and tweaked. Will they also become modern icons? Only time will tell.
1. Richard Mille RM 001 (2001)
A completely new design language: tonneau case, exposed mechanics, Formula 1 materials. Possibly the most influential luxury-watch aesthetic of the 21st century.
2. IWC Schaffhausen Big Pilot (2002)
Oversized aviation heritage refined for contemporary flying-high luxury.
3. Urwerk UR-103 (2003)
Satellite display + spaceship design = a new independent-watchmaking visual code. Yes, Audemars Piguet did it in the 1970s, but this Urwerk was truly pioneering wandering hours inspired by a 17th-century clock.
4. Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30° (2004)
Hyper-mechanical aesthetics taken to an artisanal extreme.
5. TAG Heuer Aquaracer (2004)
In 2004, TAG Heuer settled for a basic yet stylish design on its dive watches. This was the birth of the Aquaracer, which is still a staple in the brand’s offer.
6. Hublot Big Bang (2005)
The first truly successful “fusion” design mixing gold, rubber, ceramic, carbon, you name it. Big bang has since day one been polarizing but game-changing.
7. Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean (2005)
A modernized diving watch combining technical credibility and mass appeal.
8. Grand Seiko SBGA211 “Snowflake” (2005)
Grand Seiko created an iconic design through texture, restraint, and purity rather than bold form.
9. Bell & Ross BR 01 (2005)
The aviation instrument watch as a literal design object — square, bold, unmistakable.
10. Breguet Tradition (2005)
Inspired by shapes from Breguet’s original drawings, the brand used its heritage to create something unheard of.
11. Breitling Superocean Heritage (2007)
1950s yet completely contemporary, with one of the best Milanaise bracelets in the industry, makes the Superocean Heritage a modern classic.
12. Cartier Ballon Bleu (2007)
A new crown placement in combination with the distinct circle made this one of the most commercially successful watches by Cartier.
13. Max Büsser & Friends HM 1 (2007)
Sculptural, 3D, unapologetically non-traditional mechanical art for the wrist. When HM 1 arrived it redefined what a watch can look like.
14. Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle (2007)
Classical purity – the Traditionnelle deserves its name and place in horological history.
15. A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk (2009)
In 2009 came a teutonic puck from Glashütte packed with a message, horology, savoir faire and an unmistakeable look. A Wagner opera for the wrist.
16. De Bethune DB28 (2010)
The bent triangle on the dial, the flexible lugs and the ergonomy all make this a true classic.
17. Ressence Type 0 (2011)
Radical rethinking of dial architecture with no hands. Rotating discs, oil-filled displays, magnetic connections: Ressence has always been different – probably due to its founder being an industrial designer, not a watch designer.
18. Rolex Sky-Dweller (2012)
A very complex and luxurious model designed with the traveler in mind.
19. Tudor Black Bay (2012)
Black Bay is a neo-vintage diver that reshaped Tudor’s identity and influenced the entire segment.
20. Bvlgari Octo Finissimo (2014)
Mixing the square with the round with the octagonal. By combining iconic architectural shapes with extreme thinness Italian design challenged Swiss watchmakers to rethink.
21. Apple Watch (2015)
The only smart watch that people care about made people think about watches again.
22. H. Moser & Cie. Alp Watch (2016)
Apple watch soon got a tongue-in-cheek answer from H. Moser & Cie. The Alp Watch is one of the most intellectually influential watch designs of the 21st century, despite being produced in very small numbers.
23. Chopard Alpine Eagle (2019)
Yes, it has a 1980s inspiration. But the Alpine Eagle flies on its own, becoming one of the strongest designs at the time.
24. Audemars Piguet 11.59 (2019)
Cut sides, hollowed lugs, a playground for many complications. Will 11.59 be AP´s future best-seller?
25. Patek Philippe Cubitus (2024)
It is simply hip to be square.
