Any Datograph is special in and of itself, this chronograph with outsize date being one of the earliest models the brand created, 25 years ago. And during that whole breadth of time, A. Lange & Söhne uses the white metal/blue dial combination on this piece for the first time.
But in truth, the German brand has gone down that road only a handful of times. That’s what makes the 2024 limited edition of the Datograph Up/Down so special. Dressed in white gold, the 41-mm case looks both beautiful and understated.
The dial, made of a circle of solid silver, offers a saturated, deep blue hue that pairs harmoniously with the metallic gray dial attributes and counters. The Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen, though, is a departure of this pared down design.
APPARENT CONTRADICTIONS
First of all because it houses a wide array of indications, seven hands and five discs, making it a time instrument like few others exist. Secondly, because the 41.5-mm case is home to a smoked sapphire dial that reveals the underlying movement.
Thirdly, because this high complication timepiece glows. During the day, it does so with the pale rose tone of Lange’s proprietary Honeygold. At night, an abundance of green-emission SuperLumiNova takes over. Yet, that such a grand complication, from such a classic brand, be endowed with a concept as rare as a full-lume treatment shouldn’t come as a surprise.
Behind the apparent sophistication, there is an almost utilitarian dimension to the brand’s intent. Making so many indications so intensely and easily readable in the dark really aligns with that unspoken guideline.
BEAUTY EVERYWHERE
But beyond the novelty aspect of these two timepieces, there is one dimension that remains singularly specific to A. Lange & Söhne. At that level of production (a few thousand pieces a year), at that level of process management (industrialization with a culture of handmade), their movements are simply marvelous to look at.
A maze of shapes, angles, curves, volumes, depth, color, textures, the sophistication in design of calibers L951.6 and L952.4 is still at the top of the watchmaking game. If there is one aspect of watchmaking that the Glashütte brand has understood at inception, and long before the vast majority of others, it is that making watches is a total art.
It requires a full commitment to the rules of micro-mechanics, to the history of the craft, to self-designed aesthetic parameters and also, to local idiosyncrasies. On each one of these points, A. Lange & Söhne has created a signature language. The fact that they entirely develop, manufacture, finish and assemble every single caliber reference has of course a lot to do with it. And with each one being magnificent.
This article is an excerpt from the upcoming GMT XXL World Magazine, debuting at Geneva Watch Days August 29th. Pre-order your copy here.
