39 millimeters. For me this is the sweet spot for a tool watch. My wrists are not huge, thus dress watches can be 36-38. But for a solid diver I want a bit of metal. 1950s was the golden era for diving watches, and even though Eberhard may not be as celebrated as Rolex Submariner, Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and Longines Legend Diver, this is one for the connoisseurs of this era.
The first one, the Scafograf 100 came in 1959. It was a horological child of its times, with a measurement of 35 millimeters, and a solid water resistance down to 100 meters. This summer’s interpretation, as one might have guessed already, doubles that down to 200 meters. Given this increase makes a helium valve mandatory, which can be seen protruding at 09 o’clock. This little bump also harmonizes with the crown guard on the opposite case side.
Hallmarks of a legend
How do you recognize the Scafograf? Whereas the original was more coherent in a graphical sense: Slightly tapering hands marrying baton and sword shapes, and ever so slightly tapering indexes, as seen here on this example from 1964.
The C-shape of the case was uninterrupted, and the bracelet was made of rectangular components.
The Scafograf 200 is also graphically strong, but with an improved legibility. It alters triangular markers with round ones. The minute hand is similar to the 1964 model, but the hour hand has been equipped with an eye-catching triangle, as was the original from 1959. This triangle is also repeated on 12, 3, 6, and 9. The pale orange SuperLuminova adds a vintage feeling, but has the lighting power of the best lume on the market.
(Oh, and then there is the little roman numeral lesson on the lower half. I am not proud about it, but I admit it – I had to google to come up with the exact meaning for MCMLIX: M = 1000 CM = 900 L = 50 IX = 9.)
Anyway. The somewhat rickety bracelet of yesteryear is all gone with this new piece which has perfected the milanaise bracelet. As expected of a watch today it is of course with a quick release, should you prefer alligator or rubber, which is also available.
Color scheme
What about the color scheme for the Scafograf 200? To me, the matt blue degradé with an argent, satin-finished minute track is just so. If you prefer be more classical it also comes with a matt black degradé version.
If you turn the watch around you will get to know the closed caseback signum of the brand’s diving watches: a starfish. Underneath the starfish is an automatic mechanical movement is vibrating at 28'800 vph.
Interestingly this piece comes just seven months after the release of a 43-millimeter version resistant to 300 meters, the Scafograf 300. Now with the 200, the collection caters for all wrists and tastes.
As Mario Peserico, Eberhard & Co. General Manager, said in a previous WorldTempus interview, it makes perfect sense that the 1950s remain the strongest design inspiration for diving watches. “It was a time when this new functional purpose was emerging – something genuinely innovative and driven by practical needs.”
Scafograf 200
Movement: automatic mechanical, Glucydur balance wheel. Central seconds hand.
Case: 39,00 mm stainless steel, with satin finish and polished
Bezel: Unidirectional rotating steel with ceramic insert-
Dial: Black or blue degradé
Water resistance: 200 m, Screw down crown and automatic helium release valve at 9 o’clock
Glass: Domed sapphire with antireflective treatment on the inside
Indexes: Applied hour markers with polished profiles, round and triangular at 3-6-9-12 o’clock, with vintage luminescence.
Hands: with polished profiles and vintage luminescence. Hour hand with the original triangular hand pinspired by the 1959 model; baton-style minute hand.
FAQ :
Q: What is the Eberhard & Co. Scafograf 200?
A: The Eberhard & Co. Scafograf 200 is a 39mm automatic diving watch water-resistant to 200 meters, reviving the original 1959 Scafograf 100. It features a helium escape valve, a milanaise bracelet, and a triangular hour hand inspired by the vintage model.
Q: What is a helium escape valve?
A: A helium escape valve releases built-up helium gas from a watch case during decompression after saturation diving, preventing the crystal from popping off. Eberhard & Co. added one to the Scafograf 200 at 9 o'clock, required once water resistance reached 200 meters.
Q: What is the difference between the Eberhard Scafograf 200 and Scafograf 300?
A: The Eberhard & Co. Scafograf 300, released seven months earlier, is a 43mm watch water-resistant to 300 meters. The Scafograf 200 is smaller at 39mm and water-resistant to 200 meters, giving the collection a size for every wrist.
Q: What is a milanaise bracelet?
A: A milanaise bracelet is a finely woven mesh-style metal band made of interlocking wire links, prized for its flexibility and comfort. Eberhard & Co. uses a refined version on the Scafograf 200, replacing the original model's more rigid bracelet.
