When price, name and speculation replace desire and pleasure, watchmaking emerges both greater and weaker. After several years when it seemed more important to have a logo than a watch, a rating rather than a timepiece, the reality of watchmaking is reasserting itself. The time has come for workmanship, accuracy and proportions to regain their place. One in which hand-crafted movements – with their wealth of details, hours of work, finesse and unsuspected efforts – return to center-stage and reaffirm their core role in watchmaking. Brands are thus in turn resuming their function: namely to sum up and contain the values the watch possesses and which are represented by the work of watchmakers, polishers, decorators and adjusters.
Decorations
Artisans – the incredible individuals who freely devote their time to the pursuit of a perfection that they define in very different ways – have not changed. Greubel Forsey, which combines the status of an established brand with the best in terms of finishing and technical innovation, continues to stun observers, as confirmed by the level of the latest Hand Made 2. Bovet continues its quest for unique design, backed by accomplished in-house production capabilities, yet with a relentlessly persistent flair for movement decoration that far outstrips convention. The ultimate example is undoubtedly the Récital 28 Prowess 1, whose movement is as richly decorated as it is ultra-functional.
Details
It is however important to remember just how small these artisanal structures are, as well as how unattainable their products remain. Conversely, there are still brands that – at very different levels of price, style, origin and seniority – approach watchmaking with ambition, respect and even a quest for aesthetics when it comes to movements. Some are giants – as how else could one describe Rolex, whose level of quality has recently been revealed thanks to the long-awaited introduction of sapphire casebacks? After years of opacity, the beauty of Caliber 7140 powering the Perpetual 1908 is now clearly visible, epitomizing an exceptional level of finesse and industrialization. The latter does not prevent attention to detail and quality of production. This principle guides the finest creations of Grand Seiko, whose level of execution on Caliber 9SA4 gives Swiss brands the shivers. Representing the Maison's highest level of quality, Chopard's L.U.C collection demonstrates this same demanding attitude year on year and the first new launches for 2025, led by the Flying T Twin Perpetual, show that the collection has lost none of its delicacy: engraved gold micro-rotor, swan's neck regulator, curved tourbillon carriage arms, etc.
Excellent
Fine workmanship (bienfacture in French) is the central focus of high-end watchmaking practiced at significant levels of quantity that have forged the reputation of the two benchmarks in this field. When one considers the quality and richness of execution of the Patek Philippe Grand Complications 5160/500R, produced by the brand’s immense and meticulous manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates, it is clear that the rather significant volumes produced there in no way detract from a truly high-level interpretation. When you immerse yourself in Caliber 5100T driving the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph, you understand how the Maison can be celebrating its 270th anniversary of uninterrupted watchmaking. The condition for achieving longevity is indeed excellence.
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