High-end chronographs

on January 4, 2026

2 minutes read

For its 250th anniversary, Breguet unveiled the Type XX chronograph, reference 2075, in two interpretations that create a dialogue between past and present, technical mastery and aesthetic refinement. A look back at a true aviation legend!

When one hears the name Breguet, what immediately comes to mind are timepieces of impeccable classicism: finely guilloché dials, fluted cases, and the unmistakable open-tipped hands. Yet behind this image of timeless elegance lies another facet of the manufacture — that of a pioneering watchmaker in the field of modern aviation instruments. The Type XX collection is the most eloquent expression of this heritage.

Born in the mid-1950s and produced until 1959, the Type 20 was first and foremost a tool before becoming an icon. Commissioned by the French Air Force and Naval Aviation, the watch was designed to meet a demanding set of specifications. As with all timepieces made for adventurers of the skies, legibility had to be exemplary and robustness essential. The chronograph also required a flyback function, allowing the timing sequence to be instantly restarted with a single push during aerial maneuvers.
Breguet thus delivered watches that became trusted companions of military pilots before finding their way onto the wrists of civilian aviation enthusiasts. In the decades that followed, the military and civilian versions coexisted, each distinguished by subtle aesthetic and mechanical variations.

In 2023, Breguet unveiled two contemporary interpretations featuring a 42 mm case. The Type 20 Chronograph 2057 draws inspiration from the original military models, while the Type XX Chronograph 2067 embraces the civilian aesthetic.
Although the original design codes have been faithfully preserved, the technical aspects have reached new heights with the introduction of the automatic Caliber 728 a high-frequency (5 Hz) movement with a vertical clutch and column wheel, offering a 60-hour power reserve inside the Type XX, and its evolved counterpart, the Caliber 7281, powering the Type 20.

Three distinctive features

Flyback Function and High Frequency

With the Calibers 728 and 7281, Breguet once again demonstrates its ability to elevate horological complications to new heights. Beating at 36,000 vibrations per hour, these column-wheel chronograph movements with vertical clutches ensure time measurement of remarkable stability and precision. Their silicon balance spring renders them completely insensitive to magnetic fields.

Efficiency as a Flight Plan

Uncompromising and stripped of any frills, the Type 20 draws direct inspiration from the watch delivered to French military pilots starting in 1951. It offers proven functionality: its dial features an oversized 15-minute counter at 3 o’clock and a small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock. A date window is seamlessly integrated into the hour track at 4:30. The mushroom-shaped pushers and large crown ensure ease of operation.

Business Class

The Type XX Chronograph stands as the contemporary civilian counterpart to the original pilot’s watch. Still equipped with a flyback chronograph, this model offers a more refined design. Its dial is distinguished by the presence of three counters: a large 15-minute register at 3 o’clock, a 12-hour totalizer at 6 o’clock, and a small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock. The date aperture is once again integrated within the hour track. The overall display of temporal information is framed by a fixed bezel adorned with a 12-hour scale, completing the composition with functional elegance.

The Type XX line holds a unique place within Breguet’s collections. Inheriting a rich history deeply intertwined with aviation, it stands as a testament to the Maison’s technical expertise in the field of chronographs. For the Type XX models, special attention has been given to preserving the historical design codes, ensuring a harmonious complement to the brand’s existing collections while appealing to enthusiasts of both fine watchmaking and history.

Gregory Kissling, CEO of Breguet

To mark the 250th anniversary of the Manufacture, the Type XX Chronograph, reference 2075, has made its maiden flight. In direct lineage with a 1955 model, two variations have been unveiled: one features a black aluminium dial, while the other a limited edition stands out with its solid silver dial. Both pieces are presented without a date display, underscoring their pure, heritage-inspired design.

These new Type XX models reconnect with the codes of the original pieces through their smaller diameter and manual-winding movement.

Gregory Kissling, CEO of Breguet

Their 38.2 mm 18K gold case houses a manual-winding movement. The Caliber 7279 drives a 15-minute counter positioned at 3 o’clock and a small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock. The Caliber 7278 also features a small seconds display, but distinguishes itself by measuring elapsed times of up to 30 minutes. Visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, the movement’s mainplate is adorned with a hand-engraved depiction of a Breguet 19 aircraft, soaring over the European and North American coastlines a tribute to the first transatlantic flight from Paris to New York, accomplished in 1930.

Squadron

The Type XX Chronograph, reference 2067, stands out through the distinctive layout of its temporal indications on a black dial. The hour track features Arabic numerals coated with beige Super-LumiNova®, while the sword-shaped hands are also filled with luminescent paint. Elapsed times are read using the central chronograph seconds hand, the 15-minute counter at 3 o’clock, and the 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock. The watch is available either on a metal bracelet (€24,200) or a brown calfskin leather strap (€20,700).

Since 2025, the Type XX Chronograph 2067 has been available in a decidedly precious version. Its case, still 42 mm in diameter, is crafted in 18K rose gold. The dial and bezel feature an elegant blue hue. This timepiece comes with an alligator leather strap matching the dominant azure tone. (€40,100)

As with the Type XX, the Type 20 Chronograph, reference 2057, is available on a stainless steel bracelet (€24,200) or its counterpart in calfskin leather (€20,700). On its black dial, the hands and large Arabic numerals of the hour track are coated with mint-colored Super-LumiNova®.

With the Type XX Chronograph, reference 2075 (€42,800), Breguet preserves the design language inherent to the collection. However, a few distinctive features set this reference apart — notably its 38.3 mm case and 18K Breguet gold hands, an alloy composed of 75% gold enriched with copper, silver, and palladium. One variation features a solid silver 925 dial, within which two equally sized subdials create a pleasing sense of symmetry. (€44,600)

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