Under the aegis of La Fabrique du Temps, the world’s most famous luggage-maker has managed to establish itself as a bona fide watchmaker in record time. Our first observation, even before the watch arrived at our editorial office, is the aptness of its name. Many brands continue to call their dual-time models “GMT”, even though this standard has long since disappeared from international norms. Twin Zone thus asserts its originality with true watchmaking accuracy and precision!
Exterior
The Escale collection is characterized by a classic design. The 40mm rose gold case features finishes that are perfectly suited to its proportions. The alternation of polished and satin-brushed surfaces has clearly been carefully considered to create elegant contrasts.
The lugs extend seamlessly onto the caseband. The splendid dial features deeply engraved meridians and parallels naturally evoking the watch’s function. While we would not refer to this as guilloché work, the visual effect on the wrist is no less captivating, without ever hindering readability. The satin brushing on the flat surface skillfully follows the lines of the meridians. Four rose gold-hour-markers appear to connect the silver-toned dial to its opaline flange.
The center of the world map beneath the 12 o’clock hour-marker reveals a clever day-night indicator linked to the second time zone. The grained calfskin strap recalls the brand’s origins and appears every bit as sturdy and travel-ready as the trunks of yesteryear.
Movement
Caliber LFT VO 15.01 is a self-winding movement with a 4Hz frequency and a 68-hour power reserve. The bidirectional winding mechanism is particularly efficient, meaning the movement therefore meets modern standards and inspires confidence in terms of reliability and chronometry. The decoration is majestic without being excessive, which certainly helps keep the watch’s price at a “reasonable” level. We particularly appreciated the frosted surface of the bridges, surrounded by a subtle polished border. However, it is the caliber’s core function that commands admiration. The master artisans at La Fabrique du Temps have fitted it with a second set of hours and minutes hands, adjustable in 15-minute increments. This simple feature serves to provide a dual-time display, taking into account zones off-set by half or quarter hours. Finally, the option to indicate a second time zone via a 12-hour hand, complemented by a day-night indicator, enables the dedicated hands to remain hidden beneath those of the local time whenever desired. The entire mechanism is controlled via the crown’s intermediate position: an idea as simple as it is brilliant!
Tests
While keenly aware of the horological talent represented by the team at La Fabrique du Temps, we were blown away by the chronometric results of the Escale Twin Zone. The daily rates measured when fully wound and after 24 hours of operation remain within a very narrow margin. No significant variation in amplitude was measured across the six test positions and the rate deviation remains negligible. In short, these are all signs of impeccable timekeeping that would pass ISO 3159 certification with flying colors. In addition to the efficiency of the self-winding mechanism and the ample power reserve measured at higher than the 68 hours stipulated by the Maison, the watch is also comfortable and easy to use.
Conclusion
I personally tend to define genius as talent combined with humility. The Navas-Barbasini duo and their team at La Fabrique du Temps embody this genius and can be considered the Federers of watchmaking, a world where egos usually compete in terms of extravagant excess. They know how to create something just right, beautiful and simple (even when it comes to grand complications). The Escale Twin Zone encapsulates their talent just as much as their most iconic creations. Hats off to them for this watch that is beautiful, well thought-out, efficient and cleverly designed!
