Ten years ago, Chopard launched a major initiative: the exclusive use of ethically sourced gold monitored from end to end, known as Fairmined. Unfortunately, this ambitious attempt to promote responsible gold did not last. The reason, however, reflects positively on the company: the available volumes of gold carrying this label were not sufficient to meet the brand’s needs, which forced Chopard to look for other ways to source fair gold. At the same time, this initial approach was accompanied by a similar parallel initiative concerning steel, also focused on responsible sourcing. After Fairmined gold came Lucent Steel.
Up to 30 tons per year
Steel is the most widely used raw material at Chopard, with annual purchases fluctuating between 25 and 30 tons. Increasing the proportion of recycled steel in its supply therefore proved to be a wise decision, both financially and environmentally. In 2019, after more than four years of research and development, Lucent Steel was introduced to meet these significant requirements.
Since 2023, all watches, including their bracelets and cases, have been made from Lucent Steel, a material containing at least 80 percent recycled content. Achieving this composition, the result of demanding technical requirements, makes it possible to nearly double the average proportion of recycled material compared with conventional stainless steel.
Where does recycled steel come from?
Lucent Steel is produced using high-quality scrap from the watchmaking industry, combined with premium-grade steel from the medical, aerospace, and automotive sectors. This approach helps reduce environmental impact while maintaining the highest standards of quality. The properties expected from this material, shine, brightness, purity, and biocompatibility, are comparable to those of conventional steel. It even offers 50 percent greater resistance than standard steel.
The impact of using this type of responsible steel has been assessed by the Stainless Steel Forum, and the results are significant. According to its figures, replacing conventional steel with steel containing 80 percent recycled material can reduce emissions by around 30 percent. When the recycled content reaches 90 percent, the reduction rises to approximately 40 percent.
What objectives is Chopard aiming for today?
Initially, the objective was to reach 90 percent recycled materials by 2025. However, the manufacture decided to postpone this target by three years. The deadline has therefore been pushed back to 2028 in order to give suppliers the time needed to source high-quality scrap. In the meantime, Chopard also introduced an additional requirement: this recycled steel must be sourced within a radius of 1,000 km around the Geneva manufacture, in order to further reduce its carbon footprint.
Today, Chopard is not the only company producing watches made from 100 percent recycled steel. Brands such as ID Genève have positioned themselves in this segment, and some Panerai models, such as those made from eSteel, follow a similar approach. However, Chopard’s weight in the industrial landscape is not comparable to that of smaller independent labels or to a handful of isolated models. Its scale alone is enough to help move the entire sector forward.
Ultimately, one cyclical obstacle remains to the wider adoption of recycled steel in the watchmaking industry: the sales of steel watches themselves. These are declining. According to the latest annual statistics from the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry, exports of steel watches have fallen by 9.8 percent, while watches made from precious metals are moving in the opposite direction, with growth of 2.2 percent. The conclusion is clear: for recycled steel to progress, consumers have one primary role: to buy steel watches.
