The latest example of that metamorphosis came in 2024, when Bvlgari transformed the bestselling Serpenti collection, which traces its roots to a gold tubogas watch the house crafted in 1948, into a minimalistic range of watches known as Serpenti Aeterna.
More abstract and stylized than the original Serpenti, Serpenti Aeterna is, according to Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bvlgari’s product creation executive director, less an object than an idea. “More than a creation, the Serpenti Aeterna is, fundamentally, a concept,” he said. “It is a serpent of purified essence, where the iconic figure has transformed into a timeless symbol and an inimitable signature.”
This year saw the addition of two quartz-powered timepieces to the Serpenti Aeterna line that perfectly capture its shape-shifting elegance. The first is a riotous celebration of Bvlgari’s singular—and signature—expertise with gemstones, and the other a refined, everyday design that nevertheless retains the Aeterna’s sophisticated styling.
Two temperaments, one unmistakable idea: The serpent, freed from the constraints of figurative expression, becomes something sleeker and more sculptural.
A Joyful Symbol of Vitality and Transformation
A masterpiece of gem-setting
Bvlgari’s savoir-faire with colored stones comes alive in the bejeweled version of the Serpenti Aeterna. The house drew from a palette of rubellite, amethyst, topaz, emerald, citrine, sapphire, tanzanite, pink and paraíba tourmaline, tsavorite, and peridot, choosing 122 stones prized for their vibrant colors and rarity.
Cut as rounds, brilliants, princesses, pears, and ovals, the gems come together in an arrangement that feels spontaneous yet meticulously crafted. Realizing the design in rose gold, fully set with stones, was no easy undertaking: The process spanned 225 hours overall, including 185 hours just for selecting and preparing gems, plus upwards of 60 hours of work for setting alone.
Bvlgari’s new gem-set Serpenti Aeterna (104312) comes in a 24 mm rose gold curved case set with 5 carats of round brilliant diamonds and 13 carats of colored stones.
A study in contrasts
Forged in rose gold and fully gem-set, the watch features a seductive contrast between the purity of the white diamonds that trace the serpent’s silhouette and the vibrancy of the colored stones set on its curved case. An entirely pavé-set dial, with a radically stylized reptilian head, underscores Serpenti Aeterna’s striking graphic presence. Inside the curved bracelet, openworked hexagonal scales flood the stones in light, creating endless variations and plays of transparency.
A Quieter, More Wearable Style
A golden first
For the first time, the Serpenti Aeterna appears in yellow gold. The precious metal is complemented by diamond-lined curves and paired with a white mother-of-pearl dial. At once sophisticated and subtle, the watch is designed for everyday wear.
The yellow gold curved case measures 24 mm in size. The model’s yellow gold crown is set with 11 round brilliant-cut diamonds while the yellow gold bracelet is set with 68 round brilliant-cut diamonds totaling more than half a carat.
Stacking sensation
The Serpenti Aeterna’s graceful curve allows the piece to hug the wrist like a warm embrace. Designed for stacking alongside other Bulgari bracelets, this iteration looks great combined with styles that allow the wearer to express the many facets of their personality.
Then again, never underestimate the appeal of a single statement piece. The yellow gold Serpenti Aeterna is bold, sophisticated and eternally chic—in other words, it will never go out of style.
A hint of diamonds
The model’s bangle bracelet and graphic head and tail incorporate a mix of taut and curved forms that are accentuated by a few lines of diamonds. The brilliance of the white stones is the perfect accompaniment to the iridescent glow of white mother-of-pearl on the dial.
Serpenti Aeterna gives form to a powerful idea, according to the house. No longer bound by the rules of figurative design, the icon becomes something else: a design object of extraordinary elegance, forged in radiant yellow gold.
In the two newest versions of the Serpenti Aeterna, Bvlgari reimagines the maison’s legendary icon and eternal symbol of rebirth as a bold, contemporary statement of infinite evolution. The fully gem-set Aeterna amplifies the creation’s vivacity and brilliance, while the more restrained golden bangle trades maximalism for ease without losing the design’s underlying appeal.
FAQ:
Q: What is the Bvlgari Serpenti Aeterna?
A: The Bvlgari Serpenti Aeterna is a minimalist reinterpretation of the brand's snake-inspired Serpenti collection, launched in 2024. It traces back to a 1948 gold tubogas watch and is described by Bvlgari as a concept rather than an object.
Q: What is a tubogas bracelet?
A: A tubogas bracelet is made from tightly coiled metal strips forming a flexible, tube-like band with no visible links. Bvlgari crafted its first tubogas watch in 1948, a design that became the foundation of the Serpenti collection.
Q: Can Bvlgari Serpenti bracelets be stacked?
A: Yes. The curved Serpenti Aeterna is designed for stacking alongside other Bvlgari bracelets, letting wearers combine multiple pieces. It also works as a single statement piece, in either the gem-set or yellow gold version.
Q: What is the new yellow gold Serpenti Aeterna?
A: The yellow gold Serpenti Aeterna is a 24 mm watch with a white mother-of-pearl dial, a crown set with 11 diamonds, and a bracelet set with 68 diamonds totaling over half a carat. It marks the model's first yellow gold edition.
