Who invented what? In watchmaking, that question is highly contentious. For historians, it fuels endless debate; for brands, it underpins powerful narratives built around landmark achievements: the first waterproof watch, the first chronograph, the first perpetual calendar, and so on. In the absence of properly filed patents, claims often remain open to interpretation. Written accounts frequently clash with tangible evidence—that is, the watches that have physically survived.
The Breguet Exception
Breguet stands apart for at least three reasons. First, there is the sheer volume of innovations produced by the master watchmaker (1747–1823) over his lifetime. Many relate directly to the movement, such as the invention of the pare-chute—now widely known by its industrial name, Incabloc—or the terminal curve of the balance spring. On the aesthetic side, “Breguet numerals” and “Breguet hands” (with their hollowed apple shape) have become part of the standard vocabulary.
Second, Breguet made strategic use of patents. The most notable example is the tourbillon, whose authorship is undisputed thanks to the patent he secured on 26 June 1801. He was not only a pioneer in watchmaking technique, but also in how such innovations were protected and leveraged.
Finally, the house benefits from exceptionally rich archives. Beyond written records confirming the presence of specific complications in given watches, there is also an extensive material collection: numerous preserved pieces in the Breguet museum that provide undeniable physical proof of his technical mastery—or even of his authorship. This is where debates resurface, particularly regarding the invention of the perpetual watch.
Three Men, One Invention
In simple terms, three inventors were working simultaneously on what would become the “perpetual” or automatic watch. A written document credits Perrelet with its invention in 1777, though its reliability has been questioned. Some historians instead attribute the mechanism to Sarton, a native of Liège.
At the same time, Breguet was exploring the same concept. He left no precisely dated notes, but in the 1790s he mentioned having worked on the perpetual watch “for 25 years,” placing his efforts around 1775—roughly the same period as Sarton and Perrelet.
However, neither Sarton nor Perrelet left behind a surviving watch that conclusively demonstrates their work. Breguet, by contrast, is represented by a tangible example: the Breguet 1/8/82, completed in August 1782 and likely begun in the late 1770s. Records also indicate that the first “perpetual watch” was sold in 1780, although that specific piece has not survived.
Contemporary Resonances
The origins of the “perpetual watch” continue to find clear expression in 2026. The form of the rotating mass, at a time when it did not yet complete a full 360° oscillation as it does today—has been reinterpreted in the latest Tradition 7037 models. Its ogive-shaped geometry is unmistakably characteristic of Breguet’s design language.
A similar legacy can be seen in tact watches, where time was read by touch via a single hand, hence the term “tact,” referring to tactile reading. The principle behind this clever mechanism was relatively straightforward. The outer edge of the case featured “touch markers,” typically made of diamonds, pearls, or gold studs. The single central hand, which the wearer could feel, was able to rotate freely in one direction but was blocked in the other. As a result, it would stop mechanically at the current hour, for instance, 3 o’clock. By feeling from the pendant and counting the markers with their fingers, the wearer could determine the time. The most advanced Breguet tact watches even included intermediate markers to indicate half hours.
In addition to this single-hand display, the watch also housed a secondary, traditional dial within the case, enabling the time to be read visually. This “control dial” complemented the tactile function. The architecture of the movement, with its strong focus on symmetry, continues to inform contemporary watchmaking design.
