We still remember the birth of the brand in 2002, just two years after the launch of your favorite magazine. One of De Bethune’s first models was featured in this column. In addition to remarkable craftsmanship, we recall being impressed by an already powerful stylistic identity and a sense of innovation geared towards efficiency rather than ostentation. In almost a quarter of a century, the brand has continued to develop intelligently in terms of both its strategy and its collections. It was therefore with great pleasure that we tested this DB Eight in order to provide a pragmatic assessment of the brand’s journey to date and the work of its watchmaker-founder Denis Flageollet.
DESIGN:
De Bethune rapidly established strong identity codes that have since enabled it to explore many directions without ever losing sight of its path. This DB Eight features an understated, classic style almost evoking a return to fundamentals. Its titanium case (42.4mm in diameter and 9.2mm thick) radiates airy elegance. The brand’s signature ogival-shaped lugs add a modern touch and their seamless integration into the case middle is a real success both technically and aesthetically. It is however the dial and hands of this DB Eight that really catch the eye. The dial’s guilloché work is bewitchingly delicate. The choice and sizing of the font are first-class and the transfer is applied with surgical precision. The long, slender blued titanium hands enhance the overall harmony and ensure the exemplary legibility and genuine functionality of this single-pusher chronograph.
MOVEMENT:
The difficulty involved in developing a chronograph movement – whatever its functions or the range to which it belongs – has already been mentioned many times in this column. The caliber of this DB Eight is hand-wound and oscillates at a rate of 28,800 vph. It is a single-pusher chronograph (with crown), whose inter-jewel-pivoting column wheel attracts a great deal of attention. The movement is regulated by the efficient balance-and-hairspring tandem that Denis Flageollet continues to perfect with great intelligence. The work on the mass distribution of the balance wheel with its titanium rim and gold oscillating weight, on its aerodynamics as well as those of the balance-spring with its terminal curve and its attachment, is truly remarkable and demonstrates robust and enduring technical determination. In 20 years, De Bethune chronometry has amply proved its efficiency and reliability, with every innovation clearly well thought-out and carefully measured. Space does not permit us to go into details on the fantastic volumetric integration of the chronograph mechanism within the overall movement, nor on the quality of the finishing and decoration. This is the 31st caliber produced by the Manufacture in L’Auberson, which according to its website employs less than 50 people. To be able to offer such an accomplished caliber in terms of its construction, design, chronometry and finishing speaks volumes for the level of skill cultivated by the brand’s various teams.
TESTS:
The DB Eight is a marvel of lightness and ergonomic comfort. It was disturbing to realize how one can sometimes actually forget it’s on the wrist. Winding is smooth. A slipping-spring avoids excessive spring tension, a wise choice that might perhaps have justified a discreet power-reserve indicator (on the movement side?). The 60-hour power reserve demonstrates remarkable energy balance and the efficiency of the regulating organ. The precision timing figures revealed by the measurements testify to the pertinence and true effectiveness of De Bethune’s work.
CONCLUSION:
A great deal of hard work has clearly been done in L’Auberson, which has produced 31 such major calibers in 22 years. The DB Eight is yet another milestone in this quest for excellence and deserves to be saluted at a time when industrialization and excessive marketing are tarnishing the image of certain brands.
The path chosen by Denis Flageollet and his team since 2002 is clearly the right one. The man’s discretion and humility are matched only by a talent that is undoubtedly insufficiently recognized and appreciated. DB Eight is the latest embodiment of a long-term vision focused on technically proven and measurable efficiency. Pragmatic indeed! We look forward to the next milestones, complete with their improvements and innovations.
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