Right now, the Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin is the best example of Vach-eron making no compromises when it comes to style and technicity", says Style & Heritage expert Morgan Maillard, who joined the brand in 2012 as a watchmaker.
The watch is powered by brand-new Caliber 2550, a 2.4-millimeter-thick movement which is not designed to break all records. Instead, it is a very robust movement with an 80-hour power reserve perfect for a watch intended to be worn every day. "Ultra-thin has been a part of our watchmaking for almost 100 years. In 1930 we made a 0.94mm-thick movement for a pocket watch; in 1955 the 1.64mm-thick Caliber 103 and in 1968 the 2.45mm-thick self-winding 1129", said Maillard, demonstrating impressive encyclopedic skills. The use of platinum has been part of Vacheron Constantin's catalog since the late 19" century. However, the new Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin is something completely new, representing the first time that platinum has been used in the Overseas collection. This is not just any platinum, but an alloy fused with copper and gallium, making it 2.7 times harder than regular platinum and less prone to scratches.
"Wrist wear provides a distinctive experience thanks to the weight of platinum, which you feel directly. The color is also whiter than white gold or steel and it will stay that way, says Maillard about the stable alloy, adding that platinum is generally wanted by people seeking to feel a bit different. He also linked the metal to the current understated luxury trend. "It is not ostentatious, as it is a white metal, but it is more unique and different. To have a platinum watch in a growing collection gives it diversity»
Bespoke Luxury
Part of Maillard's job is meeting collectors around the world, listening to what they want. "Platinum corresponds to a wish expressed by our collectors.
We listened but we also added something unex-pected: a new caliber with an eight-day power reserve made possible by two suspended barrels", he says, adding that the caliber is also the first one with a micro-rotor in the Overseas collec-tion. Another popular aspect of the overseas is the interchangeable strap/bracelet. The Self-Winding Ultra-Thin comes with a platinum bracelet, as well as an alligator leather or rubber strap. "For me, the rubber version brings the greatest suppleness and comfort. It makes the watch special and I love breaking the rules", he adds. With the Overseas collection, the straps can also be customized when it comes to the colors, the stitching and the interior, such as having it engraved, etc. "You can choose between ten and 15 different straps for this model, not to mention the bespoke options, which are the same price as a normal strap. You just have to wait a little bit longer - like around four weeks."
Meaningful Legacy
When it comes to someone who has had the word "style" in his title since 2025, confirmed by a perfect pocket handkerchief protruding from the breast pocket of a square-cut jacket during our interview, along with a love of the fashion scene in New York (where he used to live), it comes as no surprise that Maillard loves salmon pink dials. "They have come in and out of our catalog since the 1940s. In recent years we have had a salmon pink perpetual calendar chronograph in 2022 and a Patrimony retrograde in 2023 and now yet another one. So we have no rules when it comes to making salmon-toned dials, only that they must make sense. For me salmon is something amazing and not just the color itself. It adds a common thread from the past and continues a legacy. Those 1940s timepieces are truly unique and they are extremely rare and sought after. I think in 70 years' time it will be the same with this watch", he continues. "It perpetuates a legacy. I think it is nice to immortalize traditions."
FAQ
What is the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin?
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin is a 2026 model powered by the new Caliber 2550, a 2.4mm-thick automatic movement with a robust power reserve built for everyday wear, marking the collection's first use of a platinum case and bracelet.
Why is the Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin the first platinum watch in the Overseas collection?
Vacheron Constantin used platinum in its Overseas collection for the first time with the Self-Winding Ultra-Thin, choosing an alloy fused with copper and gallium that is 2.7 times harder than regular platinum and more scratch-resistant, with a whiter, stable color.
What is an ultra-thin watch movement?
An ultra-thin watch movement is a mechanical caliber engineered to minimize thickness while staying reliable. Vacheron Constantin has pursued this since 1930, from a 0.94mm pocket-watch movement to the 2.4mm Caliber 2550 inside the new Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin.
How many strap options does the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin offer?
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin offers 10 to 15 strap choices, including platinum bracelet, alligator leather and rubber options, plus bespoke colors, stitching and engraving at the same price, ready in about four weeks.
