In watchmaking, one often has to look back in time to better understand the present, particularly when it comes to chronographs but also with regards to diving watches. In 2005, Audemars Piguet unveiled its first diver’s watch, named the Royal Oak Offshore “Scuba.” It was not yet a collection, but rather a trial balloon launched by the brand to expand its Offshore line created 12 years earlier by designer Emmanuel Gueit. The “Scuba” was produced in a 35-piece limited edition intended for retail company Wempe, which was celebrating its centennial that year.
It enjoyed a positive reception and Audemars Piguet therefore continued to develop its “Scuba,” though always rather discreetly, in limited editions introduced in 2006, 2008, 2009 and then in 2010. At that point, the “Scuba” designation was dropped in favor of the current name: “Diver.”
From then on, the Diver line became a permanent fixture. It was enriched with new materials and bolder colors: forged carbon, tantalum, ceramic and above all a green variation that in 2016 gave the collection a unique aesthetic signature. The Royal Oak Offshore Diver is not just a professional diver’s watch; it has become an everyday wristwatch. Its vibrant colors elevate it beyond the “tool watch” category to embrace a broader nautical destiny: from docks to the open sea via reefs and far beyond, all the way to the mainland for those who appreciate its more muscular proportions compared to those of the traditional Royal Oak.
A pop of color
From 2016 to 2026, Audemars Piguet steadily expanded its Offshore Diver line. Color is no longer merely an optional feature, instead becoming an essential component of the collection. Last February, the Manufacture launched two new models reflecting this reality.
The first model comes in three interpretations with distinctive hues: pink, turquoise and deep blue, each with a 42mm diameter. They otherwise all echo the original, featuring the Mega Tapisserie pattern, a rotating flange operated by the additional crown at 11 o’clock; as well as the 300-meter water-resistance marking just as it first appeared on the dial in 2012. It captures the original spirit, revisited with a major movement update with selfwinding Caliber 4308: based on Caliber 4302 which drives dozens of AP models and is currently exclusive to the Diver version.
The Chronograph takes center stage
At the same time, the Royal Oak Offshore line was also expanded with a chronograph. This complication is an inseparable part of the Offshore that appeared at the same time as the line itself. The initial base movements were from Jaeger-LeCoultre, with a Dubois Dépraz chronograph module. As the years passed, external base movements were phased out when Audemars Piguet sold its 40% stake in Jaeger-LeCoultre, effectively establishing itself as an independent integrated Manufacture. Caliber 4401 powering the new Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph is a worthy heir to this transformation. The two models announced in February combine this mechanical excellence with the appeal of color: notably the brand’s historical “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” shade. The second model – which swaps the ceramic case for titanium – opts for a smoky green finish.
Color & Chrono, the winning combo
The new models announced just before summer continue this saga. While color and chronograph remain the two keywords in the Royal Oak Offshore lexicon the two concepts are now closely linked.
The most substantial models are three 43mm Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronographs. They feature everything that makes this watch – dubbed “The Beast” at its launch in 1993 due to its oversized proportions and prominent water-resistant gasket – truly unique. The first model in steel with a black dial combines pink gold with the Offshore aesthetic. The second in titanium contrasts yellow and turquoise against an anthracite background. The third is a steel version in which orange accents enliven monochromatic silver-gray tones. Each model is fitted with an interchangeable textured calfskin strap matching its color palette. The collection is powered by Caliber 4404, exclusive to the Offshore and itself an evolved version of Caliber 4401.
New diameter, new caliber
The three other new models feature a 37mm diameter and two of them are in titanium: a first for this size. The design challenge is more complex than it appears as reducing the proportions of a model whose uniqueness lies precisely in its generous XXL dimensions risked jeopardizing the collection’s entire DNA. Audemars Piguet has however successfully preserved the essence of the Offshore and equipped it with Caliber 6401, introduced earlier this year.
Stemming from a five-year development process, it succeeds Caliber 2385 (based on Frédéric Piguet Caliber 1185), which had been part of the AP catalog for nearly three decades since 1997. Like its predecessor, Reference 6401 is an integrated selfwinding column-wheel chronograph equipped with Audemars Piguet’s patented vertical clutch system. It also stands out for its streamlined architecture designed to reduce the number of components and eliminate unnecessary mechanical play. The result is a chronograph that is robust, reliable and responsive, with pushers that require minimal pressure to activate. Audemars Piguet reveals the mechanism through a sapphire caseback.
A new interpretation of the design
The three new versions equipped with this movement feature subtle yet significant design variations. Slimmer than on previous models, the case is now topped by a bezel with softened lines, forming a continuous curve from 6 o’clock to 12 o’clock. On the sides, the pushpiece guards have redesigned polished edges blending seamlessly into the case. Particular attention has been devoted to the dial, which features a wider-spaced interpretation of the Tapisserie pattern paired with new “bathtub” style hands and luminescent hour-markers on the flange. The date display has been shifted from between 4 and 5 to 6 o’clock to ensure a more balanced composition. Finally, these turquoise, pink and sky blue variations come with interchangeable rubber straps and the latter two also feature a bezel set with 32 diamonds totaling approximately 1 carat.
A Reinvented Saga
From the Diver to the Chronograph, Audemars Piguet continues to evolve the Royal Oak Offshore without abandoning the codes that have shaped its identity. Blending mechanical heritage, new proportions and an explosion of color, these latest releases show a collection that is still capable of reinventing itself while remaining true to its DNA.
Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph / 42mm
CASE: steel or titanium, sapphire caseback, water-resistant to 100m
SIZE: 42 x 15.3mm
MOVEMENT: Caliber 4404 in-house self-winding movement, 32mm, 433 components, 4Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), 70h power reserve
FUNCTIONS: flyback chronograph, hours, minutes, small seconds and date
DIAL: Méga Tapisserie pattern
STRAP: interchangeable textured calfskin leather,pin buckle
Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph / 37mm
CASE: steel, titanium, or pink gold with sapphire crystal caseback, water-resistant to 50m
SIZE: 37 x 11.5mm
MOVEMENT: Caliber 6401, in-house self-winding, 27 mm, 350 components, 4Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), 55h power reserve
FUNCTIONS: chronograph, hours, minutes, small seconds, and date
DIAL: Tapisserie pattern
STRAP: interchangeable rubber strap, pin buckle
