In every being, a panther purrs. An emblem of femininity, an object of desire, and an indomitable and timeless creature, the black-coated panther is a treasure trove of seduction. Perceived as powerful, mysterious, and unpredictable, the feline is a perfect metaphor. In West Africa, it represents wisdom and courage. Seen in dreams, it enables women to rediscover their instinctive femininity and symbolizes their ability to transform themselves.
On the trail of the panther
While the panther’s first appearance at Cartier dates back to 1914, with a wristwatch “furred” with diamonds and onyx, the feline established itself in the Maison’s universe under the guise of a very real woman. A close friend of Louis Cartier, Jeanne Toussaint was nicknamed the Panther. Her free, avant-garde temperament and elegance set her apart. Louis Cartier placed this daring woman at the head of Cartier High jewellery. She remained there for over 20 years – from 1933 to the end of the 1950s – infusing modernity into the jewellery of the “Jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers”.
Coloured gemstones, yellow gold, a bestiary, and motifs featuring luxurious vegetation celebrated Indian and Oriental designs and flourished at this time. The panther became an integral part of the Maison’s creative language. In 1948, the creation of a voluminous animal on an emerald cabochon came to life thanks to a commission from the Duchess of Windsor. Sensual and ferocious at the same time, the collection grew, marking the culmination of Jeanne Toussaint’s exotic style.
At Cartier, the feline trend lends itself to infinite variations. Poudriers, watches, cigarette cases, necklaces, brooches, scarves, perfume and even body lotion…the Cartier panther has the power to seduce many women, even the most prominent personalities. Today, in the latest Cartier campaign, the panther is embodied in the features of actress Vanessa Kirby, a woman who is both magnetic and free-spirited in character.
The Horlogical Panther
From opulent jewelled watches to spectacular timepieces featuring rare craftsmanship, the Panther reigns over Cartier’s watchmaking creations. The 1980s saw the birth of the Panthère watch with its extra-flexible bracelet, like the muffled footsteps of the emblematic animal. On the “Révélation d’une Panthère” watch, 650 brilliant-cut diamonds flow over the dial, forming, for a moment, the feline’s features and recalling the passing of time on an hourglass. Another version, the “Panthère Joueuse”, displays the hours and minutes in an extraordinary way with a diamond on a disc for the hours, followed by the panther’s paw indicating the minutes. Most of these magnificent creations come from the Maison des métiers d‘art at Manufacture Cartier in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Granulation techniques and the assembly of gold beads, straw and wood marquetry, and enamelling reinvent ad infinitum the different looks of the majestic feline, which continues to carve out the lion’s share of the Maison’s timepieces today.
