Time to Fly

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Feathers
2 minutes read
Birds, their silhouettes, their wingbeats and, above all, their feathers, have inspired the watchmaking world to the point that there are many “bird” dials to choose from. These innovative and original creations are a testament to the creative imagination of their designers, and often feature traditional skills and artistic crafts

CHF 182, Laps

This pretty and affordable “Made in France” watch is produced and assembled in Paris. Its clean lines focus all attention on the dial, which is reminiscent of a modern art work. The unique central hands float above a feather from a Lady Amherst pheasant, a magnificent bird found in south-west China and Burma.

© Laps
Amherst in yellow gold PVD steel, 28 x 24 mm, quartz movement, leather strap © Laps

CHF 20,300, Corum

This reissue of a Corum model from the 1970s is given a majestic makeover with the addition of peacock feather dial. The engaging pop art aesthetic is created by a master feather worker or “plumassier”. Feathers are rigorously selected for their stability, density and fineness, then steam cleaned and shaped by hand.

Heritage Artisans Feather in steel, diamond-set bezel, 39 mm diameter, automatic movement, leather strap © Corum
Heritage Artisans Feather in steel, diamond-set bezel, 39 mm diameter, automatic movement, leather strap © Corum

CHF 29,900, Bulgari

This ultra-feminine watch, whose fan-shaped lugs define the transition between case and strap, is part of the Animali Fantastici universe, Bulgari’s mythical bestiary. The dial is crafted from feather marquetry – the feathers in this case being blue peacock feathers.

Diva’s Dream Peacock in pink gold, diamond-set bezel and lugs, 33 mm diameter, quartz movement, leather strap © Bulgari
Diva’s Dream Peacock in pink gold, diamond-set bezel and lugs, 33 mm diameter, quartz movement, leather strap © Bulgari

CHF 37,000, Dior Horlogerie

The originality of this watch lies in its inverted automatic movement, whose oscillating weight lies not on the back of the movement but at the front. This transforms the rotor into a new field for creative expression as it twirls around the mother-of-pearl dial. Here, the rose gold rotor is decorated with cockerel feathers and set with diamonds, sapphires, amethysts and tsavorites.

Grand Bal Plumes Précieuses Pastel in steel, diamond-set bezel, automatic movement, satin strap © Dior
Grand Bal Plumes Précieuses Pastel in steel, diamond-set bezel, automatic movement, satin strap © Dior Horlogerie

CHF 51,200, Harry Winston

A magnificent stylised peacock, probably the favourite bird of jewellery watchmakers, dominates the gold dial decorated with a hand-made glass micromosaic in tones of blue, green and turquoise, enhanced with diamonds and blue sapphires. The scene is inspired by Ravenna, the Italian city known for its stunning mosaics.

Premier Precious Peacock in white gold, diamond-set bezel, 36 mm diameter, automatic movement, leather strap. Limited edition of 30 © Harry Winston
Premier Precious Peacock in white gold, diamond-set bezel, 36 mm diameter, automatic movement, leather strap. Limited edition of 30 © Harry Winston

CHF 67,500, Cartier

Cartier has chosen to showcase not feathers, but the birds themselves on this colourful watch. Set against a grained enamel background, two macaws pose on the branch of an exotic tree. The scene is conjured out of champlevé enamel, a technique in which each different colour of enamel is separated from the others by a tiny gold wall. The elements combine in a complex jigsaw puzzle, producing an eye-catching effect.

Pasha in white gold, diamond-set bezel, 42 mm diameter, automatic movement, leather strap © Cartier
Pasha in white gold, diamond-set bezel, 42 mm diameter, automatic movement, leather strap © Cartier

CHF 81,000, Hermès

Hermès pays tribute to the seasons, in this case, autumn, with a scene inspired by the pattern of one of its famous silk squares. The dial, in micro-engraved gold with miniature painting, opens the doors on a fantastical animal kingdom. The central figure is a dancer with an eagle’s head and outspread wings.

Slim Automne in white gold, 39.5 mm diameter, automatic movement, leather strap. Limited series of 12 © Hermès
Slim Automne in white gold, 39.5 mm diameter, automatic movement, leather strap. Limited series of 12 © Hermès

CHF 106,000, Van Cleef & Arpels

This beautifully evocative dial is crafted from stone marquetry on a white gold base, featuring larimar, jade, jasper, jadeite and variscite, enhanced with lines of diamonds. In the centre is a captivating red cardinal in flight, made from white gold covered in feathers, with an enamel-painted beak and an onyx cabochon eye.

Lady Arpels Cardinal Carmin in yellow gold, diamond-set bezel, 38 mm diameter, manual-winding movement, leather strap. Limited series of 22 © Van Cleef & Arpels
Lady Arpels Cardinal Carmin in yellow gold, diamond-set bezel, 38 mm diameter, manual-winding movement, leather strap. Limited series of 22 © Van Cleef & Arpels

CHF 177,000, Bovet

For this reversible watch, which can be converted from a wristwatch into a table clock or pendant, Bovet has chosen to decorate the back with a charming miniature-painted scene on mother-of-pearl, representing two doves against a floral background that took the artist over 100 hours to create.

Fleurier 39 Lady in white gold, diamonds-set bezel and lugs, 38 mm diameter, manual-winding movement with off-centre hours and minutes, small seconds and power reserve indicator, leather strap © Bovet
Fleurier 39 Lady in white gold, diamonds-set bezel and lugs, 38 mm diameter, manual-winding movement with off-centre hours and minutes, small seconds and power reserve indicator, leather strap © Bovet
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