For its 20th anniversary in 2016, Parmigiani Fleurier released a genuinely interesting, new, in-house hand-wound chronograph movement PF361 in a brand-new watch, Tonda Chronor Anniversaire, which won the 2017 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in the ‘Chronograph’ category.
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Chronor Anniversaire was introduced featuring a royal blue or white grand feu enamel dial paired with an understated and streamlined rose or white gold case. Dial-side, the Chronor seemed rather austere and reserved, with only minor decorative elements, such as the gold pyramid-shaped hour-markers and the elegant frame of the large date aperture. The rest of the layout, with the chronograph counters and the running seconds subdial, appeared functional, uncluttered and timeless. It remained resolutely in line with the brand’s philosophy. The incredible movement aesthetics made the Chronor Anniversaire stand out, worthy of our attention years after this technologically advanced and aesthetically splendid watch was launched.
To design a perfect chronograph movement is no mean task; to make it as beautiful as the Parmigiani Fleurier PF361 is genuinely a challenge. Parmigiani already had in-house chronograph movements in the collection, but they were modular. What is remarkable about the Chronor Anniversaire is that Parmigiani Fleurier chose to create a new integrated split-seconds chronograph used for the simultaneous timing of two different intervals or to measure the elapsed time of two separate events that start at the same time but have different durations. It is thus more complex and delicate than a regular chronograph — not so much because of the number of components, but rather in terms of precision and adjustment.
When the Chronor is started, the precisely lined-up superimposed central seconds hand and the split-seconds hand begin to move. After a predetermined interval, which could be as little as a tenth of a second (Calibre PF361 runs at 36,000vph), the split-seconds hand can be stopped via the actuator button co-axial with the crown while the main seconds hand continues to move. This allows one to read the elapsed time of the first event. Once the first event has been timed, the split-seconds hand can be released and catch up to the main seconds hand. You can then use the split-seconds hand to time another event while the main seconds hand continues to run and measure the total elapsed time.
With the Chronor Anniversaire, everything is perfect. This timepiece was destined for acclaim from the moment it was conceived and through development and production. The PF361 features two column wheels, one actuating the normal chronograph function, the other to split the time or catch up with the event’s timing, while the wheels are linked to a vertical clutch, which ensures smooth functioning. The PF361 is a technical achievement and a very spectacular calibre, demonstrating Parmigiani Fleurier’s haute horlogerie finishing skills. The open architecture of this calibre allows one to enjoy the view of many technical parts of this movement — which is very rare for integrated chronograph mechanisms. The movement’s main plate and bridges are crafted in solid rose gold, also a rare occurrence, which adds to the elegant presentation. The main plate is matt frosted, while by contrast the pierced bridges feature brushed surfaces with chamfered edges and hand-polished sharp edges. The sinks and screws are polished and bevelled, the wheels are finished with a circular pattern, whereas the steel parts are adorned with straight graining.
The Tonda Chronor Anniversaire was and still is a perfect embodiment of the constant quest for excellence — a quest that has been driving Michel Parmigiani since the launch of the brand in 1996 and even long before that. An impressive horological achievement, the Tonda Chronor Anniversaire is 100% Swiss-made, with most of its parts produced by the manufacturers affiliated with Parmigiani Fleurier and united under the imaginary ‘roof ’ of the Watchmaking Centre: Atokalpa and Elwin for the components, Les Artisans Boîtiers for the cases, Quadrance & Habillage for the dial and Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier for the movements. The exceptional Calibre PF361 continues to power the newer limited-edition Tonda PF Split Seconds Chronograph. We nonetheless raise our hat to the original Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Chronor Anniversaire, the very first and rare iteration.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Chronor Anniversaire
CASE: white or rose gold, water-resistant to 30m
DIAMETER: 42.10mm
MOVEMENT: PF361, handwound, 75-hour power reserve
FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, seconds, date, split-seconds chronograph
DIAL: grand feu enamel, white or royal blue
STRAP: leather, by Hermès in black or ‘Etruscan’ colours
LIMITED EDITION: 25-piece limited series
LAUNCH YEAR: 2016
This year GMT Magazine and WorldTempus have embarked on the ambitious project of summarising the chronograph since the year 2000 in The Millennium Watch Book - Chronographs, a big, beautifully laid out coffee table book. This article is an extract. The Millennium Watch Book - Chronographs is available in both French and English here.
