The G.F.J. Calibre 135 is probably one of the best choices the Le Locle based Manufacture could have made to commemorate its rich history. The watch was designed around the legendary 135 movement produced between 1949 and 1962, an award-winning mechanism specially conceived and developed to win top prizes in chronometry competitions. While Kari Voutilainen recently (in 2022) helped bring a dozen old movement blanks back to life, we are told that this is a new and improved production run. With the fashion for this type of reissue, we have experienced many disappointments due to purely marketing driven products, oblivious to a model's fundamental values. So, is this G.F.J. Calibre 135 credible? To find out, we invite you to step inside our workshop.
CASE
The design of the 39mm platinum case evokes the style of the years when the first series of Caliber 135 were produced. It is simple, ergonomic and soberly adapted to current construction methods. The center of the lapis lazuli dial is bordered by a blue lacquered scale, with a guilloché "brick" pattern. The seconds subdial at 6 o'clock is made of bluish mother-of-pearl. The elegant baton-type hands are judiciously devoid of luminescent material. The overall effect is understated and the interplay of contrasts on both case and dial is captivating.
MOVEMENT
Those who fight on behalf of chronometry (precision timekeeping) are pragmatists. The "135" in the name of this movement therefore refers to its dimensions: 13 lignes, or 30mm in diameter and 5mm thick. When it came to development, everything was designed to make it a champion of chronometry. Its size, its 2.5Hz frequency, the incredible inertia of its balance wheel, its centering: everything down to the last detail is geared towards precision. The technicians responsible for this faithful reissue have nevertheless made a few relevant, carefully calibrated improvements. The power reserve has been increased to three days (72 hours) and a stop-seconds mechanism has been added. Aesthetically, this remains a technical product, and the huge balance wheel with its Breguet overcoil ensures a spectacular display. The decoration is, however, by no means neglected. The bridges are guilloché worked with the same "brick" pattern as the dial; while their chamfering worthy of Haute Horlogerie includes one or two interior angles. Even before subjecting it to rating tests, it is clear at first glance (and listen) that Caliber 135 is a monument to chronometry competitions.
TESTS
Putting an end to any potential lingering suspense, Caliber 135 turns out to be a veritable 'beast' when it comes to chronometry. Its measurements could even make us question the relevance of the developments of the last half-century (silicon, high frequencies, new escapements), as it turns out that a low frequency, well designed architecture (centering operations), exemplary finishes (efficiency) and huge high-inertia balance wheel still offer an ultra competitive compromise! There is definite overuse of certain clichés such as "listening to the watch's heartbeat" or "the thrill of winding a watch." If yours truly were not irritated by their excessive and often inappropriate use, they would be printed here in capital letters and large type. Chronometry, ergonomics, emotion and reliability: this is the most flawless performance ever recorded in this column.
CONCLUSION
We have tried in vain to temper our enthusiasm. The price ? Try finding a platinum watch at this price (CHF48,900) while offering such chronometry, reliability and finishing and you'll see it's no easy task! In addition to all its duly observed and measured qualities, this watch has something more. It is a true source of emotion. A watch that inspires confidence, a watch made to be touched, observed, listened to. It has given your humble servant a surge of intense emotion such as he had not felt since discovering the world of watchmaking 40 years ago.
