Today the Parisian luxury maison unveils a timepiece that marks a new era for Chanel. The Monsieur, with instantaneous jumping hour and retrograde minutes, is equipped with the very first in-house haute horlogerie movement signed by Chanel: the Calibre 1.
Entirely designed, developed and assembled by Chanel, this manually-wound mechanical movement has 170 parts. With its integrated complications, it took eight of the company’s master watchmakers five years to develop. The Calibre 1 has a sunburst finish and diamond-chamfered angles, and beats at a frequency of 4 Hz.
The strength of the lion
The Monsieur watch revels in its Parisian pedigree: the octagon, the shape of the Place Vendôme, which the maison Chanel has called home from the outset, is a distinctive theme of the timepiece. Chanel’s most masculine emblem, the lion, symbolising strength and power, has been selected as a seal, which will be engraved on all its in-house haute horlogerie movements.
This new men’s timepiece incorporates two complications. The first, which has to account for micro-shocks and the energy consumption required by the rotation of the aluminium hour disc, is an instantaneous jumping hour. The second complication is the retrograde minute, displayed in a 240° counter towards the top of the dial, which demands both aesthetic rigour and technical performance. The simultaneous jump of the hour and minute is a technological tour de force for Chanel. Two series-mounted barrels guarantee a three-day power reserve, and minutes can be adjusted in both directions, a convenient feature for the lucky wearer.
Minimalist design
Designed in Paris and manufactured in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the Monsieur watch proudly displays its architectural, highly-finished and almost entirely skeletonised movement. The minimalist and subtle dial, set in a 40 mm round case, is supremely elegant. Like the Calibre 1 itself, the case was specifically designed for this landmark timepiece. The position of the complications, the jumping hour at 6 o’clock and the off-centre 240° retrograde minute, along with an exclusive font for the numerals, are evidence of Chanel’s decision to make this innovative new timepiece really stand out.
Betting on innovation
Chanel set out with the objective of “not doing anything that you can find elsewhere”. The Monsieur watch is not a one-shot; it’s the beginning of an adventure. “Our strategy is to give Chanel haute horlogerie a good start in life,” explains Chanel. Chanel sourced all 170 components from its partner Romain Gauthier, master watchmaker and designer.
For its 2016 release, the first Monsieur watch will be available in a limited run of 300: 150 in beige gold and 150 in white gold.
We have been told that the 2017 Monsieur will feature some additional animation on the dial, something we can all look forward to.
