Some watchmakers like to sit on the fence, betting on unisex, androgynous models, while others prefer to differentiate the sexes more clearly. Baume & Mercier is among the latter group. For SIHH 2016 the Geneva-based watchmaker is focusing on two major collections, one bringing out the masculine, and the other emphasising the feminine.
Promises, promises
For Madame, first, the Petite Promesse. After the launch of the flagship Promesse line, which constitutes a dynamic complement to the historic Linea, Baume & Mercier is strengthening the collection with three new 22mm models, a clear departure from their 30 and 34 mm predecessors.
With these variations, Baume & Mercier is following the trend towards more restrained dimensions and a return to a certain geometric moderation, triggered in large part by the rediscovery of vintage timepieces. In times of economic upheaval it is common to see a reversion to more sensible, less ostentatious designs, which are seen as relatively safe and reassuring.
Less is more
Nevertheless, reducing the diameter by 30% is not simply a matter of clicking the “resize” button. Very often, it changes the entire aesthetic balance of the watch. The overall proportions have to be reassessed, which sometimes means altering the lines. “Paradoxically, by reducing the format of the Promesse we haven’t sacrificed anything; in fact we’ve strengthened its identity,” points out Alexandre Peraldi, Director of Design. “The hallmark of the Promesse is its oval bezel. In 22mm it jumps out at you, it asserts its presence over and above the case that contains it.”
Each of the three models comes with a different bracelet: there are two calf leather versions, in blue and orange, along with a steel bracelet. Two of the models are discreetly gem-set, while the third has a diamond-encrusted bezel. All the straps are double-wrapped, a natural choice for leather but somewhat unusual for steel.
In terms of the movement, the reduced form factor forced some technical choices. Although a mechanical movement would have been possible, Baume & Mercier ruled it out, as Alexandre Peraldi informs us, “because its power capacity would have been far too weak in such a small movement.” “We therefore opted for quartz, which is universal, and which also enabled us to remove the crown. In 22mm the crown tends to draw all the attention, unless you scale it back to a dimension that would make it practically unusable. By using quartz we were able to remove it, and place an adjuster on the caseback.”
Yellow snake
For the gentlemen, it’s the high-octane world of the Cobra sports car that is back in the spotlight. Baume & Mercier first announced its partnership with Shelby in 2015, and it is now making the most of the association with two new variations on the Capeland.
The historic blue of the Shelby AC Cobras has been set aside in favour of a black and yellow livery inspired by a Shelby Sebring which sported two rather unusual horizontal yellow lines on the hood. For its watchmaking tribute, Baume & Mercier has located the bands between 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock, and the tachymeter scale, hands and counters are all picked out in yellow.
Two variants are on offer, with ADLC or steel cases, fitted respectively with a rubber or leather strap. “It’s a more sporty watch,” notes Alexandre Peraldi. “The black version really sets off the steel bezel, which faithfully reproduces the exact shape of the car’s headlights, a shape that was also common to many motorbikes of the time.”
