Navitimer

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Navitimer - Breitling
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70 high-flying years

It is not only a Breitling icon, but a true watch industry icon – and in the words of Breitling CEO Georges Kern, “we do not use the term icon lightly. This is one of the most identifiable watches of all time. From an instrument for pilots, the Navitimer has become an expression of travel and discovery for generations of passionate enthusiasts.” 

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The Navitimer, whose name is a contraction of NAVIgation and TIMER, was the first partner of aviation and its pilots. Its development began in 1952 with the aim of making it an authentic "wrist computer". At the same time, Breitling was building up solid aeronautical experience. No less than 25 airlines were equipped with Breitling onboard chronographs. Aviation was gradually reaching maturity and its pilots were demanding increasingly complete instruments. The Navitimer was to become their favorite instrument also loved by fans of aviation and soon of space conquest.

Navitimer

Many people are unaware that the first Navitimer did not have a registered name. When Willy Breitling developed it in 1952, it was a product reserved for pilots and he only trademarked it in 1955. There was almost no advertising on the product during its first years and nobody - not even its inventors! - could have imagined the success of the Navitimer. Yet word of mouth spread quickly, boosted by the fact that it was also in 1953 that Willy Breitling decided to move Breitling's headquarters to Geneva, at 6 Place du Molard. Even though some pilots continued to land at Les Éplatures, a small airfield in La Chaux-de-Fonds, so as to knock directly on the door of the Montbrillant workshops...

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Unique Design

The timepiece was already astonishingly modern at the time of its launch: it was the ultimate tool watch equipped with a bezel that was an authentic slide rule. Coupled with two logarithmic scales rimming the dial, the Navitimer transforms into a flight instrument, displaying information including ascent times, fuel consumption and reserves, as well as conversion from miles to nautical miles or kilometers. 

This slide rule developed in 1952 was never changed until 1990. It is therefore no coincidence that right from the first 1954 Navitimer models, the famous AOPA (Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association) made this official watch and placed its logo. On the dial More than a mere token of recognition, this was a deeply significant accolade marking the birth of the “instrument watch”. 

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The design of the Navitimer is a textbook case. Firstly, because it is quite complex for those who are not pilots or lack serious arithmetical skills. It is a timepiece for professionals. Secondly, because it is a chronograph – a complication that is essential today, but which was not the norm for the wristwatch of the time. And finally, because this design has remained virtually unchanged for 70 years. There are very few variations and they are highly sought-after, such as the Navitimer World with a dual-time display; and the Cosmonaute with 24-hour display, notably Ref. 809 worn by John Glenn and especially Scott Carpenter in May 1962 and the first Swiss spacegoing wristwatch. 

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In addition to these variations, the design of the Navitimer has been complemented by various logos testifying to pilots’ attachment to this model. The AOPA wings have become legendary. The Breitling logo itself has varied: the original stylized "B", a winged “B”, sometimes accompanied by a depiction of planes in mid-flight known as “Twin Jet”. Occasionally, companies and armed forces have placed their coats of arms at 12 o’clock (Swissair, Patrouille de France, Patrulla Aiguila Espana, Canadian Snowbirds and many others).

Coveted Legends

The first Navitimers are as rare as they are sought after. The original timepiece developed in 1952, the “AOPA” Navitimer Mk1.1, was distributed exclusively to the latter’s members from 1954 onwards. It is an ultimate collector's item, equipped with the Valjoux Caliber 72 that is much appreciated by collectors – and appeared almost 10 years later in the Rolex Daytona. The version without the AOPA signature was distributed to the public at the end of 1955 under the reference “806 ”. Equipped with hand-wound Venus Caliber 178, it commands sky-high prices.

To distinguish an AOPA model from a public model, you have to look at the logo: watches with the winged logo of the AOPA along with the AOPA signature were intended for the American association only. Those with the unsigned logo were marketed through the general Breitling network. In 2019, Breitling dedicated an identical “Re-edition” of the 806 model whose market value, supported by its 1,959-piece limitation, is starting to soar. 

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Thereafter, the Navitimer gradually became a style icon, worn by musicians such as Miles Davis, Serge Gainsbourg, as well as by Formula 1 drivers Graham Hill, Jo Siffert and Jim Clark. A panda-style version was introduced in 1963, and from 1965 onwards with the Twin Jet logo on all non-AOPA Navitimers.

The Navitimer Chrono-Matic, unveiled on 3 March 1969 on the basis of the famous Caliber 11, is one of the first selfwinding chronographs (Ref. 1806, supplemented by a manual-winding version, Ref.816). Featuring the crown on the left, pushers on the right and a bicompax dial, it is a much-coveted exception. In the same year, 1969, Breitling also presented its Navitimer in 48mm. The large diameter, offset by short lugs, was immediately adopted by younger, urban customers. 

Breitling took the last step in its progression in 2009, with its own in-house movement: Caliber B01 that is still in use today. The first iterations appeared on the Navitimer in 2010 and are already considered as potential collector’s items. 

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The Next Generation

“Heritage in motion”: such could be the motto behind the models dedicated to the Navitimer’s 70th anniversary. There are three series, all equipped with Manufacture Breitling B01 selfwinding movement – COSC-certified, endowed with a 70-hour power reserve and visible through the sapphire caseback – and teamed with a leather strap or a metal bracelet (steel or gold depending on the version). 

The legendary AOPA wings are back at 12 o’clock, while a new date window at 6 o’clock completes the symmetrical effect. The case now features a new alternation of polished and satin finishes. Its short lugs ensure that the Navitimer fits perfectly on the wrist. 

The first collection is available in 46 mm and four different references: three steel cases and one red gold case. The first ones feature the colors dear to Navitimer collectors: iconic black with white counters; “sky blue” which is a must for a pilot's watch; and a new variation in a trendier and more disruptive sunburst green. The latest gold version adopts a reverse chromatic composition featuring black counters against a gray backdrop, an unprecedented livery for a Navitimer 46 in gold. 

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The new 43mm Navitimer picks up the same segmentation, but more developed, with five steel cases and one gold case. The steel iterations will feature the iconic black dial with white counters and its reversed double, as well as three exclusive colors ushering the Navitimer into the 21st century: bronze, glacier blue and mint green. The gold version also features the classic black Navitimer dial. 

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Finally, the 41mm collection will be considerably expanded with the addition of four new references: three with steel cases (featuring a midnight blue, silver or mint green dial) and one with a red gold case and silver-toned dial. For 70 years, the original pilot᾿s watch has continued to appeal to both aviators and the most discerning connoisseurs...

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