Is this the last of the records? Perhaps. In ten years of an extraordinary saga, Bvlgari has shattered all existing codes in the field of ultra-thin watches. Aesthetic codes on the one hand, with these taut and edgy modern lines such as could only be achieved through well-mastered Italian excess. And technical codes, on the other hand, with a succession of slimness world records covering the full spectrum of categories (automatic watch, tourbillon, GMT chronograph, etc.). After this turbulent adolescence, the Octo Finissimo seems to be entering a more thoughtful era. With eight world records in ten years, Bvlgari has nothing left to prove. The creations unveiled this fall demonstrate maturity and a desire to build a lasting watchmaking cathedral. As dazzling as ever, yet without individually stunning feats. Expressive, but no longer explosive.
New Skeleton 8 Days
The latest Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days embodies this progressive shift. Bvlgari is no longer working on records for their own sake, instead opting to focus on technique in the service of aesthetics. Witness the monumental 8-day power reserve. While discerning connoisseurs will note the XXL format of the barrel which single-handedly occupies a quarter of the watch, the power-reserve complication itself is discreet, blending into the curve of the small seconds. It is hands-free and features a gauge with a gradually tapering scale – a touch of coquetry indulged in by its designer Fabrizio Buonamassa, who is a fan of beautiful cars.
Its dial marks a new aesthetic in the Octo Finissimo line: it is resolutely openworked and its matt anthracite appearance strikes a beautiful contrast with the 40mm case in satin-finished and polished pink gold. It has the same taut lines and geometric strength, yet differs from it in the contrast between the gray and gold tones, the satin and brushed finishes. A complex yet perfectly legible timepiece issued in a non-limited edition.
Chronograph GMT: Pink Gold Makes a comeback
In the family of world records, number five is a standout model: the 2018 Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic powered by Caliber BVL 318 measuring just 3.30mm thick. This timepiece was a UFO featuring two rarely combined complications (chronograph + GMT) within an ultra-thin construction not generally housing either of them.
Only three years after its appearance, the timepiece returns in a new interpretation: a satinfinished pink gold case framing brown lacquered dial. The combination of gold and chocolate tones is not new, but rare in an Octo Finissimo collection that has built its reputation on more modern materials, such as titanium or carbon. Fitted with a leather strap, this new Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic is distinguished by its spirit that is fiercely modern with its taut lines and sculptural case, while eminently classic with its gold case and brown crocodile leather strap. The same goes for its proportions: a very contemporary 43mm diameter, paired with an extremely moderate thickness of only 8.75mm. A narrow path perfectly negotiated by Bvlgari, which confirms its art of merging substance and form, aesthetics and technique, tradition and modernity, into a homogeneous, coherent and unique whole. A timepiece for aesthetes that also takes a permanent and unlimited place within the company’s watch collections.
Octo Finissimo GMT Calling Collectors
Connoisseurs will be glad to note that Geneva Watch Days reserved their fair share of limited-edition timepieces. In addition to their rarity, these timepieces are both very appealing products and wise investments.
There will be a lot of gold on the latest Octo Finissimo Automatic, although not for everyone: the yellow gold version is a 50-piece limited edition to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the first Bvlgari boutique in the US, while the pink gold one is not limited.
In both cases, Bvlgari expresses its favorite watchmaking theme: the balance between understatement and prowess. Understatement, because the two timepieces display nothing more than central hands and small seconds at 7 o’clock – the purest kind of dial from Bvlgari. While this timepiece is distinguished by its classicism and its restraint, a sense of prowess is nonetheless present. First of all, it embodies horological prowess with a timepiece that is no thicker than 6.4mm, a realm of extreme thinness that Bvlgari has dominated for the last ten years. Secondly, it is a design feat, with a timepiece appearing in a 100% gold version (case and bracelet). A model that celebrates a certain Italian extravagance: ultra-thin, ultra-chic, ultra-shiny and ultra-rare.
From Rome to Tokyo
Two years ago, the name of a Japanese architect thrilled the watchmaking world: Tadao Ando. While hitherto previously unknown to most watch collectors, he was nonetheless renowned in the world of urban art for his extremely pure constructions based on glass and concrete. This play on materials, volumes and contrasts naturally appealed to Bvlgari, inspiring a dedicated Octo Finissimo with three hands and no hour-markers. The limited series hours (200 in titanium and only eight of the carbon version with a tourbillon) was snapped up in a few hours.
his year, a woman is being honored, the architect Kazuyo Sejima who is also Japanese. With the benefit of its experience, Bvlgari has decided to think even bigger, with a 360-piece edition. Also working on the contrast between material and transparency, visible and invisible, the architect has designed this Octo Finissimo Sejima Edition to reflect the codes running through her work.
The model is characterized by the strong mirror effect of the sapphire crystal dial, enriched with a dot pattern also designed by the artist. The case and bracelet are made of polished steel: an extremely reflective treatment resembling the glass of skyscrapers, but the wearer will need to be careful not to scratch its surface. The case itself, specially designed for this model, reproduces this mirror effect. A disconcerting and daring creation that draws the Octo Finissimo away from its Roman architectural codes to explore the modernity of Japanese megacities.
As a WorldTempus reader, we are delighted to offer you the latest digital version of this GMT magazine that you can download here as well as the GPHG catalogue. Happy reading!
