The snake family, with more than 3000 species, is incredibly diverse. From 10 cm to 10 metres in length, blue, black, green, yellow, multi-coloured, striped or spotted, their extraordinarily diverse incarnations opens up infinite possibilities for Bulgari. The Roman company exploits its Serpenti collection rather like a herpetologist, focusing on realism and exploring all the anatomical variations of its favourite creature. Contemporary interpretations of this fascinating reptile abound.
There are few species that lend themselves so perfectly to multiple interpretations. First of all, the snake is crammed full of symbolism. Present in every culture, as initiator, guardian, killer and talisman, it occupies a central place in mythology and in the collective unconscious. And then, its physical characteristics make it a natural fit for a bracelet. Coiling up is its natural means of hiding, readying for a fight, sleeping and laying its eggs. The snake therefore spends most of its time in the position it would naturally occupy on the wrist. It can also coil around the arm, like the Serpenti Scaglie, which snaps shut by eating its own tail.
Finally, its scaly skin lends itself exquisitely to metalwork. There’s not even any need to reinterpret it; all it requires is for art to imitate life, and you have an haute joaillerie wristwatch. Diamonds, emeralds, turquoises, sapphires, black and gold, the snake’s camouflage and warning displays all provide grist to Bulgari’s creative mill. For a company that loves combining colours and precious materials, nothing could be more perfect.
Some snakes are common, but others are far rarer and more difficult to find. This characteristic is also reflected in the Serpenti collection. The pieces in steel are a way to make the concept accessible, then there are the Spiga models, followed by those made in a combination of steel and gold. After that, we can add a few diamonds to the head, the dial or the bezel. The next step is often to lengthen the snake. The Serpenti watches frequently use Bulgari’s Tubogas bracelet, whose flexible coils mould comfortably to the arm without becoming a boa constrictor. The Serpenti generally settles for winding once or twice around the wrist, but it can reach almost up to the elbow with seven turns, making it as long as a python.
In nature, one aspect clearly differentiates one snake from another, and this also applies to the Serpenti – the shape of the head. A round head is (almost) friendly. A trapezoidal profile begins to suggest a certain amount of metaphorical ferocity. But a pointed head, perhaps with horns, and an open mouth, leaves no room for doubt: it’s a dangerous and venomous creature, and it needs a brave and self-assured woman to carry it off.
It is a paradoxical but undeniably human trait that desire is quickened by the threat of danger. Thus Thanatos and Eros come together in the haute joaillerie versions of the Serpenti: an articulated body in gold with enamelled or gem-set scales leads to a head whose jaws open wide to reveal a watch. Some of the heads are as frightening as those of vipers. Sensitive souls should perhaps look elsewhere.
