The beauty of the dial is the visible expression of the movement that lies beneath, like the tip of an iceberg. Its design is a consequence of the internal arrangement of the hidden mechanisms, gears and complications of the movement. And that’s what defines the placing of the hands, counters and apertures on the display. The dial is the face of the watch, expressing the identity of the timepiece in the way the functions are arranged.
Today, WorldTempus is taking a closer look at brown dials, which are stylish, discreet, sophisticated and elegant. And if we’re talking about elegance, we have to begin with the Classic Fusion Berluti by Hublot. The Nyon-based watchmaker has joined forces with Berluti to pursue its exploration of unusual and iconic materials for its dials and bracelets. The challenge is considerable, as using a living material in a sealed case is a particularly complex operation.
This undeniably artistic timepiece is clad with Berluti’s Venezia leather with its characteristic patina. The Classic Fusion Berluti Scritto, available in a limited edition of 250, has a strap skilfully carved in Venezia Scritto calf leather with lettering inspired by 18th-century calligraphy. Each strap is unique, created according to a procedure similar to that used for Berluti leather shoes: the leather is shaped, worked, cut and assembled, before being finished and, finally, fitted to the watch. The collaboration between the two houses has given rise to a new definition of excellence and an immediately recognisable style.
Following the runaway success of the Overseas, and its new interpretation for this year, Vacheron Constantin took the decision to bring out new versions of its worldtimer, chronograph, date and small models with brown dials. Combining practical convenience with a casually elegant design, the new models with their elegant chocolate hue are an ideal travel companion for globetrotters. The rotating discs alternate sun-brushed, satin-finished and velvety textures, and the sapphire caseback reveals a 22 karat gold rotor decorated with a compass rose, the universal symbol for travel. All four models offer convenient interchangeable bracelets, allowing the wearer to change the look and feel of their watch at a moment’s notice.
Despite the absence of the distinctive Bell & Ross square case, the BR 126 Officer Brown is nevertheless convincing with its minimalist, elegant and classic design. The timepiece, in a limited edition of 500, could be the sister of the Vintage BR 126 Aeronavale in blue, minus the sporty bezel. Mounted on a brown alligator strap, the BR 126 is available with a brown dial and opaline counters, which include a 30-minute register at 9 o’clock and a small seconds at 3 o’clock. The 41 mm polished steel case provides a harmonious counter to the applied metal indices and the skeletonised metal hour and minute hands filled with Superluminova®.
