Fashionistas all over the world rejoiced at the return of their favourite day of the year — the Met Gala! Having put our own horological spin on some of the most memorable looks from previous years, it’s time for us to turn our attention to this year’s event. Every first Monday in May (a tradition set in place since 2015), the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art opens its doors to welcome our favourite celebrities. The evening celebrates fashion whilst raising funds for the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute.
This year, the museum exhibition was titled “Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty”, and contained more than 200 exhibits delineating the career of the fashion designer. Lagerfeld is principally known for his work as Chanel’s creative director from 1983 to 2019. Under his direction, Chanel became one of the most emblematic fashion houses in the world, with its designs recognised and celebrated everywhere. He brought a new look to the creations of the brand, integrating modern elements and new materials as well as techniques.
The dress code of the Met Gala 2023 read simply “In honor of Karl”, and guests did not hold back in their sartorial tribute to the numerous design elements that marked the success of his tenure at Chanel.
The Sautoir Necklace
Chanel’s sautoir necklaces are among the most iconic accessories from the brand. First made in the 1920s, it was one of the first pieces of jewellery to be worn casually, unlike traditional jewellery which was reserved for special occasions. The sautoir necklace of Chanel is distinguished by its length (up to 1.5m) and its long, fine chain in gold or silver, decorated with pearls and pendants. Initially seen around the necks of celebrities such as Edith Piaf, the sautoir necklace was revived by Lagerfeld throughout his career and it remains one of the most sought-after accessories in the brand.
Actress Jenna Ortega arrived on the red carpet dressed in a creation by Thom Browne that made several allusions to key Chanel design features. All in all, her look was perfectly encapsulated by this January’s new watch release the Mademoiselle Privé Pique-Aiguilles Décor Perles. Ortega’s dress, made of tweed, echoes the dial of the watch, made in the same material. The pearl-encrusted golden chain stitched throughout the length of the dress is a nod to the classic sautoir necklace of the Maison, which is also found on the dial of the timepiece. The delicate bow-tied ribbon at the neck of the actress can be seen thrice on the dial of the watch, and Ortega’s elaborate brooch finds its analogue in the two Byzantine brooches on the dial. We can’t help but be completely dazzled by the attention to detail that this red-carpet look paid to the design motifs of Chanel.
The Camelia
Numerous people have proclaimed Rihanna the Queen of the Met Gala. Thanks to her bold wardrobe choices that make her Met Gala appearances unforgettable, the singer has become a fixture at the event. This year, the performer chose Valentino to create her Gala outfit. And what a choice! Her dress pays homage to the camellia, one of Chanel's most recognisable symbols. The top half of the outfit was a jacket made up of dozens of giant camellia appliques consisting of 500 petals, which was then removed to reveal a fitted bodice that showed off the singer's baby bump.
The camellia was the favourite flower of Gabrielle Chanel, founder of the brand. This fragrance-free, thornless flower reflected the philosophy of the House in its simplicity and purity. Karl Lagerfeld was credited with renewing and reinterpreting the camellia in his designs for the brand. In particular, he did so with new materials and techniques to create the flower. Instead of relying solely on silk or other delicate fabrics, he experimented with materials such as leather, resin and even tweed to give the camellia a fresh and unexpected look. Lagerfeld also played with the scale of the camellia, creating oversized versions of the flower, such as those on Valentino's signature outfit. The watch that would pair beautifully with this outfit is the Mademoiselle Privé Camellia Nacre. The camellia is made from mother of pearl, a process that requires great care and precision due to the delicate nature of the material. The flower blooms on a black onyx dial set with seven diamonds and the hands, designed in the shape of flowers, add a final touch to this floral tableau.
Quilted Leather
It's impossible to think of a Chanel bag without mentioning its quilted leather material. This emblematic feature of the House, which consists of a diamond pattern created by stitching on leather, was inspired by horse blankets. First found on the brand's bags, quilted leather then made its appearance, thanks to — you guessed it! — Karl Lagerfeld, on many elements of the house such as clothes, but also jewellery and accessories. Indeed, the creative director of Chanel was able to refresh the famous quilted effect by adapting it in different colours, materials and textures over the years.
Rapper Cardi B recognised the importance of this material in Karl Lagerfeld's legacy, wearing a quilted outfit created by Chinese designer Chen Peng. The top of the outfit, which consists of a white shirt collar with a black tie, is a reference to the fashion designer's famous look. The bottom of the outfit, a full skirt, is made entirely from quilted leather and is directly inspired by the famous "Boy Bag", according to the singer. The skirt is also covered in oversized black camellias, forming a monochromic antithesis of Rihanna's aforementioned outfit. The timepiece that compliments this outfit is the Mademoiselle Privé Bouton Gabrielle. Its black quilted leather strap amplifies the texture of the skirt and the diamonds on the dial are reminiscent of those found on the performer's corset.
Pearls
Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel famously said, "A woman needs ropes and ropes of pearls.” The founder of the House mixed cultured pearls with synthetic pearls to create outfits that were both elegant and daring. In his turn, Karl Lagerfeld said that "pearls are always appropriate". There is no doubt that this precious stone deserves its place on the House's creations. Lagerfeld has often used pearls in unexpected ways, such as mixing them with other materials and fabrics, like denim and leather, to create a modern, avant-garde look. He has also incorporated pearls into accessories, such as handbags and shoes.
Kim Kardashian understood the importance of pearls when she summed up her outfit choice with a simple and effective explanation: "I wanted pearls. What is more Karl?". The media personality showed up at the Met Gala wearing a Schiaparelli Haute Couture gown, which featured more than 50,000 freshwater pearls. A dozen artisans spent over 1,000 hours creating the look, stringing and draping each strand of pearls over the celebrity's body. To extend the pearls to her wrist, the white gold and pearl Première Mini watch with a diamond-set dial is the perfect candidate.
Tweed
Tweed has been Chanel’s material of choice for over a century, to the point that the terms are practically synonymous. The brand's founder was the first designer to incorporate tweed into haute couture in the 1920s. She was inspired by the traditional Scottish tweed worn by hunters and country folk, and saw its potential in women's fashion. The fabric is made from a combination of wool, silk and other fibres, and is renowned for its durability and unique texture. Originally used for suit jackets, tweed gained new boundaries in its use when Karl Lagerfeld incorporated this timeless fabric into a wide range of designs.
Anne Hathaway was voted the winner of the 2023 Met Gala by fashion fans around the world. The actress wore a Versace creation that had everyone in agreement. Donatella Versace, the designer of the outfit, stated her intention to combine the codes of Versace and Chanel in this dress. The Chanel-style tweed cut-outs were held together by Versace's signature gold safety pins. Camellias, meanwhile, made yet another appearance on the red carpet, as seen on the bust of the outfit. The customisable My Boy-Friend watch echoed the codes of the outfit. By choosing a gold dial and pairing it with a white tweed strap, the timepiece and the dress form a perfect alliance.
