Heritage Dual Time

Its arrival at the editorial office of your favorite magazine did not go unnoticed. As soon as it was unpacked, the Heritage Dual Time for this test bench singularly enthused the people privileged to be present at what almost amounted to a ceremony. We all know the importance of a first impression and we can safely state that the teams of the “Schaffhausen-based watchmaker” proved able to unite the opinions, tastes and sensibilities of each individual, resulting in a unanimously positive verdict. The brand’s smoked dials are known to exercise a special magic charm that we will try to resist in order to take you to the heart of this watch with our objectivity intact. The object of this test bench is all the more interesting, as we see it, in that by arriving on the market with a steel watch positioned at a CHF20,000 price point, H. Moser & Cie. is going head-to-head with some universally known icons and best-sellers.

Exterior

For once, the name of the watch clearly defines it. Heritage tells us about the design inspiration, which also lays claim to a modern character. The steel case measures 42mm in diameter. It is fluid. It looks simple and it is harmoniously balanced. The size and positioning of the lugs are certainly one of the keys to this success. The caseband is beadblasted in four symmetrically arranged zones. It is impossible not to mention the dial when talking about a Moser: the emblematic fumé dials are unanimously appreciated and this Burgundy color surprises as much as it charms. Depending on the angle of the light, but also on its temperature (type and intensity of light), the shade of the dial will vary significantly, as will the contrast of the smoked effect. We like the elegance of the brand’s signature delicately engraved before the lacquering of the dial. The Arabic numerals are made of luminescent ceramic impregnated with Super-LumiNova® – a patented process that gives more intensity and autonomy and also enables the vertical sides of the numerals to be lit up to ensure breathtaking legibility and aesthetics. The hands are on the same level as the hour-markers and will never let you down.

Movement

First of all, it is worth recalling that H. Moser & Cie. is one of the very few brands to produce its own dials, but also, and above all, the entire range of its movement components. Caliber HMC 809 driving “our” Heritage Dual Time is self-winding. The automatic mechanism features a bidirectional pawl-winding system known for its efficiency and reliability that ensures 72 hours of power reserve for a frequency of 21,600 vph. The complications driving a central dual-time function and the date at 6 o’clock are housed in a dedicated module. The date is thus clearly visible directly under the dial. It should be noted that the ergonomics and the thinness of the module do not detract from the balance and the aesthetics of the watch. Fast adjustments of the dual-time and date indications are done very intelligently and simultaneously via the crown in its intermediate position. Above and beyond impeccable development, Caliber HMC809 features finishes that we would rate as superior for the segment and certainly exemplary.

Tests

The function after which the watch is named is beautifully executed. Its legibility is perfect and it is simple and reliable to use. Like the date, it can be adjusted without impacting the minutes and seconds. The size of the crown is to be commended both for its ergonomics and for the final touch it brings to the case design. As far as the base of the movement is concerned, its automatic winding is smooth and fast. The choice of the frequency-power reserve ratio offers a level of timekeeping precision doubtless optimized by the in-house mastery of the sensitive balance-and-spring tandem. This is confirmed by the measurements, showing closely grouped rates and controlled amplitudes.

"Whether or not one takes its competitors into consideration, this Heritage Dual Time excels in all areas and well beyond the first very good impression it made on us. While all too often brandished as an unconvincing marketing tool, the combination of tradition and modernism is in this instance a paragon of style and (good) taste. This is true not only for the design, but also for the technology, because the Schaffhausen technicians are also capable of being innovative when necessary, as well as wisely opting for proven and recognized solutions where appropriate. Just as with an ideal son-in-law, we would love to find a flaw in this Heritage Dual Time. The hours and the days go by and we are still searching for one, while the magic charm remains as strong as ever." Christophe Persoz, Watchmaker