A true chameleon, the Pioneer collection from H. Moser & Cie. offers even more options this year thanks to a steel case in a new 40mm size, compared with the previous 42.8mm. Slimmer wrists rejoice.
Another novel feature is the dial. A master in the art of fumé (smoked) dials since the release of its Concept model in 2015, H. Moser & Cie. has extended its palette with beautiful, intense colours that go by such evocative names as Midnight Blue, Blue Lagoon or Matrix Green. My personal wow moment came in 2021 when I had my first face-to-face encounter with the Heritage Dual Time with burgundy fumé sunray dial (launched the previous year). Even with this subtle dial colour, here was a watch that wouldn’t go unnoticed! This year’s colours are noticeably more vivid with an inclination for blue. In the wake of the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel with Abyss Blue dial, the independent brand is introducing Arctic Blue, whose icy freshness evokes the vastness of the frozen North.
It comes in “simple” and “complicated” versions. The former, the Pioneer Centre Seconds Arctic Blue, is a three-hander (hours, minutes, seconds) that lets the dial, and its punchy colour, do the talking. The latter, the Pioneer Tourbillon Arctic Blue, drops the seconds hand in favour of a show-stealing flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock. Driven by the HMC 804 movement, this Haute Horlogerie rendition equips the flying tourbillon with a double balance spring for greater timekeeping precision and better isochronism, thanks to reduced friction. It is secured by a skeletonised bridge. Characteristically understated, both dials carry the H. Moser & Cie. logo in transparent lacquer a secret signature for those in the know. Legibility is further enhanced by the use of simple hour markers.
Both these newcomers are automatically wound for three days of power reserve. Choose a perforated black rubber strap or steel bracelet to play up the sporty style, or switch to a textile or alligator strap when the situation calls for something dressier.
