Some watches are for the general public, others are for connoisseurs. The Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton by H. Moser & Cie. belongs well and truly in the latter category, for its sculptural appearance which requires a certain aesthetic maturity but more so for its cylindrical tourbillon. A few words of explanation are in order…
We owe the cylinder escapement to clockmaker George Graham. A friend of John Harrison, Graham was well versed in astronomy as well as a specialist in escapements. The cylinder escapement, circa 1720, would be his magnum opus, although the invention of the independent seconds hand is also attributed to him.
What is a Cylindrical Balance Spring?
A cylindrical balance spring, as its name suggests, occupies a vertical space. Imagine holding a spring by one of its ends and letting it hang free. Its functioning is therefore different to the more common, two-dimensional balance spring.
Theoretically, a cylindrical balance spring, by its very nature, eliminates the problem of eccentricity in a flat balance spring (put simply, this means the spring’s centre of gravity is constantly shifting). More importantly, the cylindrical balance spring expands and contracts concentrically and symmetrically.
This, again in theory, implies greater precision. In practice however, in modern watchmaking it would be virtually impossible to observe any difference in isochronism between a properly regulated flat balance spring and a cylindrical balance spring. There is even a downside to the cylindrical balance spring which the flat version doesn’t have: when the watch is held or worn at an angle, the coils of a cylindrical balance spring can touch, which can negatively affect timekeeping performance. This is why the majority of cylindrical balance springs are fitted in clocks, where they remain upright.
Dispensable, Impressive Nonetheless
The extent to which a cylindrical balance spring improves the timekeeping precision of a wristwatch is therefore up for discussion – at least in those fringes of collecting where these questions matter. They have been seen in the Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858 (Tourbillon Bi-Cylindrique) and also appear in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Calibre 995 (Master Grande Tradition).
Its visual impact, on the other hand, is without doubt, and was most recently explored by none other than... H. Moser & Cie. with the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon, co-produced with MB&F. It now returns in a Pioneer case. The choice of the Pioneer collection points to a more modern, more robust piece – hence the steel case and 120-metre water-resistance. H. Moser & Cie. has accentuated the watch’s contemporary personality by skeletonising the movement, with impressive results. It sits beneath a domed sapphire crystal whose rounded shape is echoed by the gentle curve of the subdial, with its bold Globolight indices. The skeletonwork is spectacular in the literal sense, with a special mention for the remarkable finesse of the oscillating weight.
Lime Time
H. Moser & Cie. is also introducing a never-seen-before version of its fumé dial. What could be little more than a detail for most brands is anything but at Moser. The brand has put gradient dials back centre-stage, with a large part of the industry following suit.
The Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green is recognisably Moser: no brand name, no logo, three central hands and a 40mm case, in this instance in steel. The most interesting aspect, however, is the process used to create the Lime Green finish which, as the brand explains, builds on enamelling techniques: “Starting with a pattern engrained onto a gold base, as if hammered, three different colour pigments are (…) finely crushed, then applied to create an ombré effect. It takes approximately one hour of careful work for the master enameller to painstakingly apply the pigments, adding them one by one so that the colours oxidise and meld together when heated in the furnace, without any pixellation. In total, the piece must be fired 12 times to create a translucent Grand Feu enamel dial.”
The result is unique, imparting a similar sensation to Audemars Piguet’s Frosted Gold but with the distinctive rendering of Grand Feu enamel. The dial is textured, with a slight three-dimensional effect, and the colour is pure Moser. It encapsulates everything the brand likes to be: a maker of beautiful, creative, unconventional watches for those who know.
