Walking the Tightrope of Good Taste

Parmigiani Fleurier has managed to achieve a delicate balance. Its Tonda PF collection walks a fine line between these seemingly irreconcilable characteristics: a watch for everyday wear that is extremely well finished, comfortable and in no way resembles the many visible, redundant and showy models that dominates watchmaking discussions. Intitiated by the Tonda PF Micro-rotor model, it strives for the impossible: to be unique, discreet and yet recognized by those who have a trained eye for the best. Their intellectual and aesthetic approach is based on their ability to spot the kind of detail that signals higher standards. Like the fine knurling on the platinum bezel. Like the barleycorn guilloché pattern on the dial, so fine that it could be mistaken for sandblasting. Like the impeccable fit of the integrated three-link bracelet, designed and revisited with an uncompromising vision of comfort.

Perfectly Slim

The Tonda PF was created by a watch brand founded by a watchmaker and capable of the most advanced complications, yet guided by an approach driven by style, design and ergonomics. Some might see this as a reversal of values, while Parmigiani regards it as a matter of experience. For example, this is what led the brand to use its Caliber PF703, a direct descendant of the first movement created by Michel Parmigiani in 1996. Its 3mm thinness enables the case to be correspondingly slender. At 7.8mm, it is thin, yet not flat. Its curvature ensures a snug fit on the wrist. Its automatic winding via micro-rotor frees the owner from day-to-day concerns in this respect. The choice to carve it from 950 platinum guarantees its winding power, as well as ensuring its consistently precious nature. 

Pluralistic and powerful

Since the Tonda PF was born from unique observations, it was logical that it should open up to the world… in its own way. Thus was born the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante. The latter element does not refer to a split-seconds chronograph, but rather to an auxiliary hand that can be positioned at will on a second time zone or concealed beneath the hours hand. The separation between the functions is signaled by a gold color code: pink for the GMT, gray for the local hours and minutes. And that is how the 36mm Tonda PF Automatic came into being, once again enhanced by details that might escape those not well acquainted with the watchmaking scene. For example, its applied hour-markers are not made of white gold, but of baguette-cut diamonds. The invisible setting preserves the lightness and the depth effect. Yet another secret. 

Is it important for a brand to have an iconic models ?
It’s very important. First of all, it should be made clear that it is the customer who decides whether a model is iconic, not the brand. The customer must recognize the strength of the design, the history and the brand that make it a cult object. It is curious to note how, despite the incredible number of innovations that the watch industry produces each year, the number of truly iconic models that will be remembered in the future are limited to one or two per decade, with the exception of the 1970s that were synonymous with creativity in all possible expressions.

Guido Terreni, CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier

Notably within the watch industry, the importance of having an iconic model is in my opinion even greater than in other product categories, for two reasons: the first is the life cycle, which in watchmaking is theoretically infinite. This is because luxury watchmaking has rejected technological developments in favor of the art of mechanics and traditional craftsmanship. We have already seen this on two occasions. The first was with quartz, a less expensive but more precise technology that nevertheless plunged an entire sector into crisis and did not succeed in asserting itself in the long term and replacing high-end mechanical horology. Something similar occurred more recently with connected watches, which are not a parallel business and have nothing to do with fine watchmaking. The second reason is the frequency of purchase, which is very low, except for collectors. For example, we change our cars on average every three to five years, because the technology evolves, because it loses value after a certain number of kilometers and because style also evolves faster in step with more frequent purchases, along with other considerations of this kind. Watchmaking does not. A watch lasts forever if it is well maintained. It even outlives us and its iconic nature endures, if the brand that created it respects it over time.